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Continuing our coverage of Milan Fashion Week, we’re sharing some highlights from the new Fall/Winter 2019 collections by Versace, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, and Sportmax.
This season, Versace reminded us that imperfect is the new perfection by juxtaposing ideas of luxury with grunge. In a show space that mimicked themes from the collection, we saw details like raw edged cashmere and tweed, silk bondage straps, and signature safety pins adorning a colorful palette of garments like slip dresses, furry collared coats, and snakeskin skirts hemmed with lace. Serving as a monumental archway, models made their way under a gigantic branded safety pin, wearing looks like a peach colored mini dress with cutouts held together by pins, paired with brightly colored stockings with exposed garters, and a silky black dress with a thigh-high split and strappy bra top. The collection also revisited the 1995 campaign for the fragrance Blonde, including portraits of Donatella Versace (as shot by Richard Avedon) and the perfume bottle itself as inspiration for prints and graphics.
Employing the brand’s traditional technique with an injection of modernity and technological finesse, Bottega Veneta presented a collection celebrating self-expression, freedom, and sensuality. In creative Director Daniel Lee’s first runway show for the house, the energetic looks were bathed in natural light, which poured through the greenhouse walls of the glass-enclosed show space. Armor-reminiscent pieces (like a white knee-length coat reminding us of a modern-day chain mail) presented a tough mood, while softer silhouettes with exposed skin and body-hugging cuts (seen in looks like a textured navy dress with a high neck and open chest, worn with quilted flats and a matching teal handbag) kept intact a tender outlook. Some things we loved included the sleek oversized leather boots accompanying many of the looks, and the selection of structured and woven leather pieces that reminded us of something worn to battle in a galaxy far, far away.
Continuing an ongoing exploration of the line between feminine and masculine, Jil Sander presented its Fall/Winter 2019 collection in a simple space of brick and concrete, where the neutral palette of the clothing was complemented by surrounding greenery. Long, flowing hemlines and sleeves accompanied sculptural forms, which floated off the body, seen in looks like an all-over black pairing of floor grazing trousers worn with a wrapped overcoat, and a take on a classic white button down shirt-dress with blue striped sleeves. Materials like chenille, silk, crepe, and satin, offered a feminized update to the otherwise mannish silhouettes, while heavier fabrics were handled delicately, paired with soft necklines and minimal layering. Some standout looks included the black and white empire waist dresses with the crocheted bustier detail, and the cream collared dress with the plunging neckline.
Reminding us of a high fashion trip to the racetrack, Sportmax’s new looks were presented atop a strip of sanded runway, surrounded by spectators on both sides. Projecting a vision of Classicism into the future, the collection featured updated takes on pieces like the bomber jacket, A-line skirt, classic blazer, and pullover sweaters in a palette of rusts, blues, grays, and black and white. This season focused on separates that could be worn multiple ways, seen in pairings like a two-toned gray blazer worn with loose-cut trousers, and a navy skirt and matching cargo jacket. With the understated sportswear attitude that influenced the collection, some notable details were the baseball caps and sunglasses (a new addition for the brand this season) accompanying most looks, as well as the collection of sneakers.