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MFW FW19: Moschino, Tod’s, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Santoni

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Concluding our coverage of the Fall/Winter 2019 collections presented in Milan, we’re sharing the designs debuted by Moschino, Tod’s, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Santoni.

In a show space that offered its audience a bold and technicolor escape from reality, Moschino’s Fall/Winter 2019 presentation, “Game Show,” was inspired by the idea that the daily grind is merely a state of mind. Decadent dresses were embellished with jewels and sequins, magnificent prints depicted bright iterations of everyday items like laundry detergent and dish soap, and accessories took the form of giant tubes of toothpaste, checkbooks, and miniature slot machines. Each model was styled with an exaggeratedly voluminous blowout and dripping with gems as they walked across a set fashioned after The Price is Right. Highlights included the sweat suit printed with an enlarged $1,000,000 bill, the Sparkly Clean detergent dress with sequined details, and the series of prints and graphics featuring the neon haired Troll Dolls.

Tod’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection embodied sensible elegance through a collection of Italian crafted leather-centric designs. A quintessential spread of black, white, and brown (with the occasional emerald, blush, or burgundy) saw fresh takes on classics looks like a pencil skirt and button up collared blouse, or a belted pea coat worn with a chunky knit turtle neck and rain-style leather boots. Silhouettes were roomy without being oversized, dresses were composed of pliable, lightweight leather that moved softly with the body, and prints like leopard and a western knit pattern were included sparingly. Standout looks included the black and brown leather jacket with the fuzzy white trim worn with Bermuda length shorts, ankle boots, and a cross-body clutch, and the belted alligator leather coat paired with tall boots and a white bag.

Amid the stone columns and archways of a historical Milanese building, Salvatore Ferragamo paid tribute to the power and cultural continuity passed down through the house’s history with its new collection, Generation. Alluding to the brand’s designs from 1942, the collection features patchworks of suede, lizard, snake, and nappa leather, seen in pieces like a multicolored overcoat and a two-toned red jacket and pants pairing with black leather details. Outerwear was practical, engineered with sensible shapes and trims meant to protect the wearer from inclement weather—like a long puffy coat in a deep chocolate brown that tied at the waist. A paring of earthy tones and cuts designed for ease of layering were fitting for chillier weather, without becoming bulky or overbearing. Accompanying each look were sculptural heels in bright suedes, pointed toe stilettos with rhinestone straps, and buttery calfskin pull-on boots.

Serving as a celebration of all women, Santoni’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection featured a selection of eclectic and contemporary designs in a variety of styles, ranging from androgynous flats to colorful heels. Reinterpretations of masculine staples took the form of three-buckled loafers and booties (our favorite was a mirrored silver leather pair), while heels were imagined in snakeskin and suede with eye-catching cutouts and lace-up details. Other designs included a multi-colored suede ankle boot with a block heel, and a gaucho boot in deer leather—one in polished petrol blue, and one with a colorful embroidered motif.

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THE WINTER EXPERIENCE ISSUE
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This season’s Milan Fashion Week united a mélange of internationally renowned designers, who took to unlikely venues like Italian tram stations to debut looks that were truly inspired. Below, we’ve compiled our personal favorites from Margiela, Moschino, Tod’s, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Marni.
Whitewall highlights Zegna's Winter 2024 collection, presented yesterday during Milan Fashion Week, focused on cashmere.

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Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.