MFW FW20: Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo, Giuseppe Zanotti

Bottega Veneta’s new collection offered a celebration of sublime evolution through long, lean silhouettes and modern looks infused with the brand’s classic codes. Hemlines fell below the knee or covered the tops of shoes; tailoring was clean and straight; and looks were embellished with exaggerated sleeves, collars, and tasseled fringe. Neutrals like black and brown were accompanied by livelier colors of kiwi, scarlet, purple, and emerald, and seen across a range of garments in sequins, leather, satin, and textured knits. Looks we’re still thinking about include a buttery ribbed slip dress and black coat, both with fringed hemlines; a dress in glittering green with ruched details down the body and large gathered sleeves; and a black take on a utility jumpsuit with caped shoulders, worn with block-toed boots.

Salvatore Ferragamo acknowledged the changing nature of gender identity, focusing on the kaleidoscopic diversity of the contemporary woman. Building the looks from the ground up, the brand highlighted its foundations in footwear through heeled sandals reworked from archival model, a work boot, and several iterations of the Viva shoe, including a flat sling back and a thigh-high boot. Influences from female idols like Nina Simone, Michelle Obama, and Virginia Woolf reflected an attitude of bravery, beauty, and intelligence, seen in looks like an all-over plaid suit with loose-cut trousers and a head-to-toe look of dark olive leather, reminiscent of an aviator’s uniform. Botanical images from a book by Fulvia Ferragamo were reimagined as prints on knits and shirts. Other standout pieces included a black pencil skirt, decorated in chain link ribbon details, a take on fisherman’s coveralls in deep red leather, and a pair of ultra-high waisted trousers in butterscotch, worn with a matching blazer and a bra top.

A series of grounded and expressive shoes and accessories comprised Giuseppe Zanotti’s new collection. Understatedly bold, the Fall/Winter 2020 designs included styles featuring geometric lines, thick heels, and a strong-but-sensual attitude. We saw blocky platforms with ankle straps (like a black pair in snakeskin leather with sparkling crystals), strapped sandals with a square toe, and semi-pointed pumps—like a pair with a silver heel. The collection also offered takes on a classic fitted lace up boot, including a black combat style with a thick sole, or a heeled version in brown suede, with fur details. In accessories, our favorite debut was a geometric leather clutch, available in white and silver or black and gold.