MFW FW20: Gucci, Max Mara, Kiton

Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection was filled with eye-catching looks as usual, but the real star was the presentation itself. The brand embraced the magical, enchanting nature of a fashion show, complete with a carousel enclosed in glass walls. Dim lighting revealed a backstage setup where models were being prepared by a team of suit-clad dressers, situated between racks of robes and clothing. As the stage turned, models began to take their place along the edge of the circular stage one by one, revolving around a ticking, illuminated metronome until the entire cast was dressed and ready. As the lights went up, we saw styles like ruffled Little Bo Peep dresses, mini frocks reminiscent of nurse uniforms, and other looks informed by various eras of time gone by. To close, models descended the stage to walk around the arena and exit.

For Fall/Winter 2020, Kiton looked at classic men’s tailoring and the androgynous style of Faye Dunaway from the 1967 film Bonny and Clyde. Blazers and trousers were a staple of the season, while dresses maintained a loose, swinging silhouette reminiscent of 1920s dress. The era was also reflected in exclusive textures and fabrics like geometric patterns printed on silk and knits, and a palette of neutrals and contrasting rich hues like burgundy, light blue, and pistachio. Highlights included a double-breasted blazer in camel cashmere, worn with leather pants and an overcoat; an all-over gray look with an opposing textured skirt and sweater; and a white coat with the fur collar and cuff details.

Using the ocean as a metaphor for the human condition, Max Mara debuted a collection for the modern-day adventurer. Subtle maritime undertones accompanied the brand’s signature palette of navy, white, gray, and camel, seen in a range of outerwear styles like officer greatcoats, capes, and duffels with clasps and tassels. Debonair details like ruffles, cinched waistlines, white gloves, and strappy Mary Jane heels accompanied updated takes sophisticated classics and masculine styles like pinstripe suits, oversized blazers, and button-ups worn as dresses. Looks we loved included a white blazer and skirt; a brown dress with the roped belt, head scarf, and leather pouch worn around the neck; and high-waisted pants with a ruffle-sleeved jacket.