MFW FW20: Prada, Fendi, Moschino

Lavish Marie Antoinette vibes and a candy-colored Tokyo-inspired palette were the main ingredients to Moschino’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection. A mirrored catwalk informed by 1700s French architecture laid way for looks like a series of period gowns with a cropped take on the full, wide skirts, and boyish suits reminiscent of a footman’s uniform. Each model wore an eighteenth century updo, while looks were paired with statement jewelry and styled with items like over-the-knee heeled boots, tapestry moto jackets, and matching handbags. Highlights included a dress that reminded us of Beauty and the Beast worn by Gigi Hadid; a minty look with cropped pants, ruffled bell sleeves, and a ribbon-topped choker; and a dress that looked like a cake, decorated with orange and white roses.

An all-white space with retro-futuristic padded seating set the scene for Fendi’s new designs, which explored the dual personalities of “la donna Fendi.” Materials like cashmere, leather, fur, and lace represented the underlying concept—soft power. Other elements prominent throughout the collection included rounded, structured sleeves, nipped and accentuated waistlines, and a palette of neutrals and warm colors like yellow, peach, and blush. Looks we’re still thinking about include an exaggerated turtleneck with the pleated leather skirt, a pink fringed dress with a bustier top and sheer undershirt, and a gray overcoat with the banded waist and puffed sleeves.

Walls surrounded the stage of Prada’s Fall/Winter 2020 show, which the audience peered over from above. The brand celebrated the agency of women and their strength this season, representing the woman with a recurring flower motif, and combining juxtaposing elements like lingerie with metal, or masculine cuts with soft accessories. AMO transformed the house’s space, Deposito, through a construction of red and black walls, painted with purple flowers. Models surrounded a red statue fixed in the center, parading across a psychedelically striped floor in looks like a gray vest with beaded fringe and a long, pleated skirt that ended in long strips of fabric; a blue set with leggings and a bra top, worn under a sheer tunic; and an oversized blazer and vest, layered over blue tights and a gauzy, sheer skirt.