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Frieze London 2021

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Courtesy of Marni.
Marni Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
Pal Zileri Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
Brioni Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
Brioni Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
Aspesi Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
Aspesi Fall/Winter 2019 collection.
Courtesy of Marni.
Fashion

MFW Men’s FW19: Marni, Pal Zileri, Aspesi, and Brioni

By Pearl Fontaine

January 16, 2019

So you don’t miss out on any of the new men’s Fall/Winter 2019 collections this week in Milan, we’re sharing some standout debuts below.

In a metamorphic exploration of the new youth, Marni’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection first began with the classics—and then ran with a sizeable twist. In an all-black space lined with walls of speakers and sound equipment, we saw details like loose and lanky tailoring and wide-legged pants with floor-dragging hems, brought to life through a vibrant medley of color. Traditional suits and overcoats were reimagined in ample cuts and liberties were taken with patterns, employing a mix-and-match idea in a pairing of opposing-printed jackets layered over a striped shirt, and worn with white pants and a cheetah print shoulder bag.

Aspesi played with subtle experimentation for its Fall/Winter 2019 collection, incorporating a number of sophisticated basics and technical outerwear with a lighthearted mood. Free of glitz and embellishments, the garments were captured in front of a simple concrete wall, where the dark palette of navy, brown, gray, and burgundy seemed right at home. Paired together with ample layering, the relaxed silhouettes created a nonchalant effect, making the Aspesi wearer appear undeniably easygoing and cool. A highlight of this season was the sleeping bag-inspired line of down jackets, which come in ultralight styles and reflective nylon, and are thermos-sealed to make them suitable for all climates.

Crystal chandeliers, stone columns, and marble-inlayed floors created the runway for Pal Zileri’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection. As models paraded through the space to a soundtrack of classical orchestrations like Johannes Brahms Hungarian Dance No. 5 dressed in double breasted coats and pinstripe suits, one couldn’t help but think of a scene out of a romantic era novel. Merging a number of influences like sense and sensibility, vernacular and new wave, and the male-female dualism, the collection featured deep hues, heavy wools, silks, and brocades and could easily be considered the embodiment of modern romanticism.

Ease and elegance were exemplified in Brioni’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection. Photographed atop a simple taupe backdrop, the garments were seemingly timeless, featuring a number of classics like plaid overcoats, turtleneck sweaters, and sleek blazers. Tailoring was precise, yet caressed the body, and materials ranged from velvet to wool to crocodile leather, ensuring a range of options for any occasion—day or night. One of our favorite looks was the black velvet tuxedo jacket paired with the white trousers with the black silken stripe.

AspesiBrioniFW19MarniMilan Men's Fashion WeekPal ZileriPearl Fontaine

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