MFW Men’s FW19: N°21, Marcelo Burlon, SUNNEI

This season, N°21 reinterpreted masculinity without the social confines that have been imposed for so many years. Daring to step away from the muscular, rigid ideas that have always been associated with menswear, “eroticism” and “ambiguity” were the key words for the Fall/Winter 2019 collection. Presented down a runway of black metal columns and exposed concrete, loose and plunging necklines were draped across the shoulders, shirts were unbuttoned softly, and details like necklaces, unbelted pants, and sweaters tucked in at the waist began to chip away at the masculine stereotype piece by piece. Highlights include the cheetah print fur coat and the simple yet stylish trouser and jacket pairings, completed with a shirt and tie.

Marcelo Burlon pushed aside all rules and borders for its Fall/Winter 2019 designs, creating a collection with a wandering spirit. An arc of neon flashing lights illuminated the show space, as models clad in a spontaneous palette of colors paraded down the all-black. It quickly became clear that this was not a collection of singular origin, but one of nomadic movement and instinctive accumulations filled with velvet and chains, animal print and glitter. Standout looks included the colored zebra pants with the velvet blazer, the sequined bomber with the silky button down, and the cropped pullover worn with a plaid jacket and loose-fitting jeans.

Slightly androgynous, ample silhouettes took the spotlight in SUNNEI’s sunlit runway presentation, where a simple polished floor and backdrop of large windows left the clothing to do the talking. Loose, wide-legged pants were a go-to for the brand this season, seen paired with a number of shirts and jackets, including a striped collared tee, a zip down windbreaker, and a calf-length knit and leather pullover. The addition of oversized hats and sports frame sunglasses complemented a palette of khaki, navy, red, brown, blue, and white, giving us a touch of nostalgia for the 1990s. A few of our favorite garments included the graphic printed sweater depicting a blue sky over rolling green hills, and the black leather pullover.