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Milan Fashion Week for Men’s Fall/Winter 2020 shows began last week. Below, we’re highlighting some details from Fendi, Prada, Missoni, and Brunello Cucinelli’s shows.
On a sleek white runway, Fendi presented its latest collection—devoted to some of the brand’s classics, and reimagined traditional garments. From the beginning, we saw a tribute to Fendi’s iconic yellow hue. Bright oversized bags were trimmed in black leather and swung over the shoulder; charms inspired by vintage Fendi packaging hung from bags and belts; and a travel Peekaboo bag, inspired by 1800s trunks, was seen complementing other Peekaboo and Baguette styles in an array of styles in handknit wool. Reversible outerwear was also of note (and Fendi referenced this as a “body wallet” in their notes), with multi-pocket features for card holders, earphones, and even a cigar. The duality continued with inside-out constructions and quality, seen on blazers and coats, and sleeves and jackets with zip-off hems. Other retro pieces jetted their way into the modern future, like boots with an “FF” lug-sole bottom, bucket hats and docker beanies with industrial sophistication, and a chain link animalia graphic motfi evoking 1970s allure. Special for the collection, as well, are a selection of photochromic outwear and accessories pieces. Created in collaboration with Japanese designer Anrealage, the UV color-changing fabric technology (first seen in 2013) transforms the outwear, mittens, bags, and accessories to show two new combinations—a white tiger quilting reveals a Fendi yellow, and a white diamond quilting reveals a Fendi Code in black.
In a raised arena theater setting, Prada presented its latest collection. The show was held in the grand hall of the Deposito—the multifaceted venue for performance apart of the Fondazione Prada—and designed by AMO. Seemingly as an ode to the modern-day commuter, the scene was centered around a man on a trojan horse, with color-blocking wall and floor designs leading to door portals shining strong red lights. As soon as the show began, Prada shifted our viewpoints to reimagine the known. In the show notes, the brand states that “technology of today will become history” and we see the idea of the present, past, and future blended by traditional materials mixed with technologically recycled fibers. Chromatic colors translated this re-textualization, as ideas of synchronized materials, ideals, and ways of living fluttered around the room. Ultra-stretchy cashmere knits were seen streamlining silhouettes, duffle bags with new plaid patterns and bright hues were seen carried to the site, and coats—lots of coats—were seen tidying up most looks. It’s business as usual for the Prada man, who here is endlessly observed.
Missoni’s latest collection was captured in a relaxed atmosphere, against a blue wall and in a room full of rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia like concert posters on the wall, vintage furniture, and a n old grand piano. Inspired by the Jazz scene in the 1970s and ‘80s, the Fall/Winter 2020 collection is a reflection of the time period’s high notes—a fusion of cultures, liberal vibrations, glamour, and bohemian flare. Various textures, known well to the Missoni wearer, are seen in a cool mix of retro-contemporary pieces. Double-breasted zig-zag coats with fur-trimmed collars are seen over mix-matched pants and sweaters; thin exotic leather belts and thick-knit sweaters are paired with sophisticated Chelsea boots; and skinny silk scarves are informally worn around the neck, knotted and dangling down. For the season ahead, we also took note of some patterns from the Missoni archives, like multi-stitch jacquards. They complement others patchwork and animal-esque patterns, worn with pieces like bombers, reversible car coats, and loose-fitting military trousers.
Brunello Cucinelli gave us a new collection full of downright dapper pieces for the man of today. Equal parts function and fashion, new pieces layered atop each other for complete looks or stunning standalone pieces. Fall/Winter 2020 from evolution—from the change in urban landscapes to the bustle of modern cities. Elements from the past are reimagined, now stimulated with innovative accents. In a warm color palette of beige, we see spikes of hues along its varying shades—camel, sand, carrot, corn, eggplant, and pomegranate. New pieces with old charm are seen in harmony, like pea coats and parkas tailored yet casual. With a slightly looser fit this season, we also noted new classic coats and knitted cardigans paired with timeless trousers. Japanese denim, sporty pieces with pockets, and chic tuxedos give the Brunello Cucinelli man many things to look forward to wearing this season.