MFW Men’s SS20: Armani, Nº21, Pal Zileri, and Brioni

Liberated by the summer season, Giorgio Armani unveiled a collection of impromptu elegance at the house’s historic home in Milan. In the Spring/Summer 2020 designs, each piece had the ability to blend together in harmony, despite being influenced by an amalgamation of cultures, worlds, and atmospheres. With the freedom to choose, comes freedom of silhouette—garments were fluid and roomy, appearing to be a size larger than they were. Oversized cuts were paired with shorter, more form-fitting pieces, seen in looks like a satiny cream suit comprised of matching trousers, vest, and jacket. Dense colors and simple prints were infused with a strong sense of luxury, even in sportier styles like a pair of pinstripe pants with a gathered elastic hem. Other noteworthy details included vests and jackets replacing shirts and easygoing footwear styles, like slip-on loafers and a cross between a dress shoe and a sneaker.

Nº21 designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua introduced designs brimming with the spirited inventiveness of the 1960s. Silhouettes were masculine and sporty, leaving behind contemporary notions of street style to produce looks like a pairing of skinny dress pants, leather ankle boots, and a collared bomber jacket in red snakeskin. Garments like a red blazer with wide lapels and a ribbed sweater in multitoned thread subtly reminded us of a Beatle-esque way of dressing. The collection’s materials remained primarily solid, with the inclusion of a few python-print pieces, and a recurring Hawaiian print, seen on shirts and jackets.

For Rocco Iannone’s fourth chapter in his story for Pal Zileri, the designer found inspiration in the whimsical nature of the Capriccio movement. Emerging from the steam of a Turkish Bath, models walked the shadowy stone runway dressed in looks reminding us of the best of the 1980s—like a silken printed Bermuda shorts, worn with a sweater layered over a collared shirt, and loosely pleated trousers, paired with a loosely undone button up. The season’s prints included a selection of bold florals, occasional pinstripes, and several iterations of bright plaid—all complemented by a palette of earth tones and a selection of neutrals, blues, and rusty reds. Highlights of the collection included the golden plaid shorts and jacket, worn with red fringe loafers; the shiny-sheened black suit with the sleeveless blazer; and the selection of swim shorts, often styled with open coats or robes.

Gentle yet masculine, nonchalant but composed, Brioni’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection stays true to the brand’s Roman roots, while moving forward with its sartorial evolution. The styles range from leisurely weekends to business weeks and include no shortage of options for an evening cocktail or black-tie event. Blazers are unlined and imagined in lightweight wool, tuxedo jackets stand out in shimmering satin, and the inclusion of tones like a warm mustard and lavender add options for a cheerful pop of color. What we found most intriguing were the unexpected pieces like the matching navy look (which reminded us of a deconstructed work suit), the double-breasted jacket in two-toned brown, and the silk printed loafers.