Max Mara, Moncler, Jil Sander, No. 21, and Aspesi: MFW SS19

For Spring/Summer 2019, Max Mara is elaborating on classics that carry well with age. Highlighted was Anne-Marie Beretta—the brand’s creative anima in the 1980s—who has a strong silhouette. Down a pristine white runway, for the new collection, shapes and attitude are translated into updated looks with the classic pea coat and boxy jacket seen in olive, white, blue, and ochre. Skirts are worn high at the waist with a long side ruffle or knotted at the waist; shirts have one shoulder or ruffles along the shoulder and down the arm; and new accessories gain attention, like the Briseis sunglasses and the cross-body Atalanta bag. Highlights were the head-to-toe bright yellow looks, as well as the new polka dot prints we saw on headscarves, trousers, jackets, and coats.

Moncler’s presentation, “The Next Chapter,” was a continuation of their “Genius” manifesto, presented in an expansive industrial building. With video installations providing for narratives in each room, the brand showcased new pieces with their 1952 collection, and collaborative collections with Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Noir Kei Ninomiya, and Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara. 1952 offered reconstructed pieces in an array of variations; Simone Rocha was inspired by a blooming English garden; Craig Green explored tension and protection; Noir Kei Ninomiya translated modular constructivism into a 3-D virtual garment; and Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara created an animation to tell an adventure through seasonal elements. Moncler’s shift, releasing a series of collections and collaborations when the time is right (not dictated by the season) was furthered by a progressive timeline, visual activations, and multi-sensory presentations.

The simplicity and sophistication of Jil Sander remains for Spring/Summer 2019, with designers Lucie and Like Meier building upon staples for the wardrobe—with a twist. In an unfinished industrial space, we saw some exciting new elements in a handful of the looks. Denim is transparent and flowing, sensual single-line art graces sweaters and tops, and geometric garments showcase new tailoring with cuffs and inside-our construction. With a natural color palette of almond, ecru, honey, sky blue, chocolate, and slate, the collection carried a sense of ease and movement. We also made note of enticing new accessories: leather Sombrero bags; box bags in silver, leather, and canvas; sterling silver and gold and onyx jewelry; micro black, white, blue, and red belt-bags; and some seriously fun shoes like platform sandals with thick cord straps.

Nº21’s “Bare Essentials” includes a large number of design-forward looks we’ve been waiting for. Starting from fabrics, designer Alessandro Dell’acqua takes an adult approach to the new collection with distinct lines, and a breadth of precise volumes and shapes—presented in a warehouse room. Eco-ostrich feathers adorn several looks, as do vitrified chiffon, lightweight nylon knits, faille, organza, and multiprene. With essential colors for the wardrobe as a baseline, the new collection also flashes hues of nude, pink, coral, fuchsia, dark red, and acid green.

Aspesi’s sleek new “Evening Collection” delivered delicate, yet sharp and recognizable, pieces that transition from day to evening. Mostly consisting of dresses, the collection—shot in what appears to be an artist’s sculpture studio—highlights light textiles, and patterns on taffeta, chiffon, cloqué, and silk. Shades range from black to white with green, yellow, orange, purple in-between—and a gingham print, too. Ruffled skirts and modest dresses are complemented by tuxedos, elongated jackets, and simple footwear.