MFW SS20: Prada, Max Mara, MM6 Maison Margiela, and Jil Sander

In an abandoned train station just south of Milan, MM6 Maison Margiela presented a collection of dualities for Spring/Summer 2020. Following the idea that multiple identities can exist within a single garment, the designs looked to the wedding of John Lennon and Yoko Ono for inspiration, embodied in a number of bridal-inspired looks that were infused with a rock ’n’ roll flair. Models marched the concrete runway to the beat of their own drum (literally), each carrying a personal speaker blasting sounds like church bells, honking horns, chirping birds, and rock music. Playing with the boundaries of formal and casual dress, the collection featured looks like a floor-length, voluminous ruffled skirt that read “better half,” worn with a bridal veil and cropped sweatshirt; an oversized tuxedo worn with a t-shirt, sneakers, and Lennon-esque glasses; and a long denim skirt paired with a graphic top, elbow-high gloves, and matching white satin boots.

Purity, directness, and instinctual dress were things that came to mind when we saw Prada’s Spring/Summer 2020 debuts. Paying special attention to the presentation, as well as the collection, the designs were shown in the great hall of Fondazione Prada’s Deposito, which had been transformed with an all-encompassing geometric pattern that illuminated the garments in a summery glow. We saw several iterations of a simple suit both with trousers and skirts—like a deep purple and navy pairing worn by Kaia Gerber, and a shiny gold look with a white collar, worn with tall black riding boots. The season’s prints included a several geometric abstracted patterns (seen in looks like a calf-length skirt and sleeveless blouse that tied at the neck), and a swirling motif reminiscent of a fern leaf, adorning the skirts and sleeves of several dresses. Tying together each look with a finishing touch, the season’s accessories included pieces like floppy fisherman’s hats, chunky loafers with big buckles, leather shoulder bags, and large-framed sunglasses.

Jil Sander found harmony in opposites for its Spring/Summer 2020 collection, playing with elements of softness and severity in its designs. Presented on a dark stone runway surrounded by towering stone columns, were hues of black and navy paired with earthier tones of almond, ecru, and sand. Sharp, masculine tailoring was added to long, roomy garments, creating ultra-modern and easy moving silhouettes—seen in looks like a deep olive-green pant suit and a burgundy jumpsuit with wide structured shoulders. Elements like a black and white fish print, or the addition of a tasseled fabric fringe moved fluidly as the models walked, juxtaposing sharp edges and geometric details. Looks we loved included the simple black tank-top dress, and the boxy top and skirt in cream, worn over matching pants.

On the premise that fiction needs more female spies, Max Mara imagined a wardrobe for a film that has yet to be made—the female version of James Bond, which is in the works at the hand of Phoebe Waller-Bridge. The collection debuted in a cavernous concrete hall with rows of glass windows overlooking the runway—a setting where one might imagine the final showdown in any good 007-type story. Admiring the elegance of Bond, the designs included an office-chic series of looks in a palette of light neutrals and pastels—like a tiered skirt and simple blouse in two-toned camel, an all-over plaid look with a matching tie and paisley jacket, and a long peacoat in baby blue. A staple of the collection (our favorite of which was in lavender) was a pair of loose-fitting knee-length shorts, which could be seen styled either with a blazer or safari jacket, accompanied by pigtail braids, knee socks, and heels.