MFW SS23: Bally, Ferragamo, Loro Piana, and More

Creative Director Rhuigi Villaseñor debuted his first collection for Bally’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Titled ECDYSIS, meaning a shedding of the old for the new, the inaugural show rejoiced in the profound exploration of Swiss and European luxury through Villaseñor’s American identity. With the utmost respect to the brand’s 171-year heritage, the designer beautifully fused sophistication and humor, presenting a transformational and thoroughly modern collection. With a nod to the brand’s leather goods atelier, historical references to both sports and cinema unfolded in youthful and nostalgic daywear and eveningwear. Materials ranged from tiger print suiting in silk velvet, to special engineered denim, to the fine leather craftsmanship of stretch nappa and majestic metallics. Bally wardrobe icons such as aviator jackets, trench coats, and safari-inspired pieces were refreshed in new color combinations. The Swiss tradition of toy and watchmaking was present as ever in accessory hardware, as well as in Villaseñor’s figure-8 device of interlocking Bs. Footwear for the wanderlust in each of us was both classic and playful: from crystal mesh boots to archival Mary Janes with a Cuban heel.

Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, titled “Ciao, Kim” invoked Kim Kardashian as the ultimate fashion muse. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana drew from their '90s and '00s archives, reinvigorating styles that have been inspirational to Kardashian and creating pieces drawn directly from her own sense of courage and femininity. For the dream collaboration, Kardashian wore a multidimensional floor-length evening gown of shining black Swarovski crystals. Black and white ruled the runway in evening wear and sportswear alike. Bejeweled lingerie-inspired mini dresses were underlined in black sheer tights and knee-highs, dynamic satin capes, and curve-hugging shapewear. Perfectly slouching jeans were paired with provocative bustiers and bralettes. Past and future melded in silver dresses with sheer paneling, elegant gloves, and sci-fi sunglasses. Nude and white dresses were Marilyn Monroe-esque, both soft and confident with fine ruffled detailing, ruching, and satin trim. Compelling accessories—sparkling chokers, grand cross-necklaces and earrings, and miniscule handbags—embellished each look with fierce individuality.

Sand and sun, from Hollywood to the Caribbean, held monumental inspiration for Ferragamo’s Creative Director Maximilian Davis. The designer’s grand debut for the Spring/Summer 2023 collection was held in the former Archbishop’s Seminary of Milan, a historic treasure of Baroque and Neoclassical architecture. It was a match made in heaven, layered with the warm, organic palette of artist Rachel Harrison’s Sunset Series. Sculptural and ethereal silks and organzas floated down the runway, grounded by suede sandals and sleek accessories. Daywear was made sensual in glossy leathers, tight-fitting polos and leggings, and the sheerest of knits. Twists and transformations were found in tailoring, the tuxedo, and the classic Wanda bag; named after Salvatore Ferragamo’s wife in 1988, the shoulder bag was re-imagined in a minimalist form. The cut-out bag was also revived in sleek leather, accompanied by simplified scarves and iconic prints. A pair of glimmering red shoes made especially for Marilyn Monroe in 1959 by Ferragamo inspired the crystals found on glamorous evening wear. “I wanted to pay tribute to Salvatore’s start by bringing in the culture of Hollywood—but new Hollywood,” said Davis. “Its ease and sensuality; its sunset and sunrise.”

Creative Director Andrea Incontri presented his very first runway show for Benetton during Milan Fashion Week. The Spring/Summer 2023 collection’s theme was “Be Everything,” professing both the chic simplicity of the iconic Italian brand as well as inviting a new sense of fun, freedom, and individuality. Staged in the Corso Buenos Aires flagship store in Milan, the collection debuted new contemporary classics such as eco-leather and the reimagined Benetton uniform of brightly-colored unisex bags, sneakers, caps, and sweaters. Men’s and women’s layered grunge looks were intertwined, as were delectable fruit-themed prints, collegiate stripes, and “BE” lettering. Elegant knitwear and color blocks, the brand’s cornerstones, were made striking in bouclé fabrics, vichy cottons, and recycled nylon. New accessories included open-toe rubber slippers and eco-friendly belts. The unisex BE bag, in a variety of colors and sizes, was the cherry on top. 

With mother earth’s effortless changing of the seasons in mind, Loro Piana’s Spring/Summer 2023 women’s collection was designed for living peacefully, at one with the elements. Balance in texture and color, the intermingling of masculine and feminine, and the precious with the strong, were found in each and every thread. Whether traveling or at home, cashmere blazers, luxurious trousers, and shearling blousons were styled to bring comfort and a spirit of harmony. Re-imagined outerwear such as the Traveler jacket, Bomber, and Roadster was thrown gracefully over printed silk dresses and caftans, cashmere jumpers, and Bermuda shorts. Waxed linen, wide pants cuffed at the hem, and anoraks were drawn from the romanticism and durability of the nautical world. Wool, cotton, and tweed were realized in earthly hues ranging from toasted hazelnut to rock moss green, to pineapple sorbet. Smooth leather accessories included bucket bags, caps, and jackets. Footwear was both practical and magical, with The Lakeside boots, loafers with charms, and laced boots. Style and nature’s beauty walk hand in hand in the Bel Paese.