In this look at Milan Fashion Week, we’re diving into the Spring/Summer 2023 collections from Missoni, Moschino, Etro, Lisa Von Tang, and Vaishali S.
A spontaneous reimagining of the Missoni alphabet came into effect for the Spring/Summer 2023 season, reordering its letters to focus on elements like C for color, E for energy, P for physicality, and D for discipline, among others. Imaginative takes on the iconic Missoni zig-zag stripes appeared in black and white, magenta, yellow, and cyan, interspersed with sparkles, transparencies, and strappy silhouettes—like a sheer gown worn over striped briefs or a tank dress with see-through overlays revealing a stripey pink and white motif. Looks were accessorized (the quality attributed to the letter A) with thick metallic jewelry, tiny clutches, and plexiglass heels.
In response to the gloom and darkness of global issues that loom over the day-to-day, Moschino countered with a collection bursting with fun and optimism. Blowup hearts, animal-shaped floats, and other air-filled pool toys made light of the dreaded word “inflation,” making up the collection’s motifs and quite literal expressions of inspiration. There were inflatable swans worn as boleros, lifesaving buoys turned into blue and white striped suiting, floor-length gowns in cartoon prints, and cocktail dresses adorned with inflatables. Floaties were worn around the waist or seen with parts of their anatomy woven into silhouettes, like plastic air valves poking out from bodices, plastic hems filled with air, and above-the-elbow gloves in matching hues of vinyl.
The search for individuality—imagined and real—threaded through Etro’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. A worldly gaze was paired with elements of heritage with the eccentric, bringing saturated colors and prints ranging from ombre stripes and flora and fauna, to decorative paisleys and ornate motifs. There were soft-knit beaded sweaters with printed trousers, off-the-shoulder shirt dresses with apron-like overlays tied at the waist, capes in ornate lace, and hems with the daintiest fringe. Looks were decorated with neon makeup accenting the eyes, lips, or forehead, and accessorized with statement chandelier earrings, compact carpeted handbags with a vintage flair, and heeled clogs in leather or upholstered patterns.
Lisa Von Tang conceived its Spring/Summer 2023 collection for youthful cosmopolites who live a life of glamor, self-love, and fun. Introduced amid the art found hanging in Rossana Orlandi Gallery, the garments embodied the style of a cultural nomad, nodding to the designer’s Chinese and German roots. Made to transition effortlessly from day to night, pieces had a comfortable allure like bias-cut dresses, cotton pants with hip cut-outs, supple and silky pajama sets, matching suits that belted at the waist, flowy tops, and wrap skirts. The palette was informed by the work of Henri Matisse in lilac, citrine green, pale blue, and earthen hues, seen on fabrications with responsibility in mind—like upcycled luxury deadstock materials and natural choices of cupro, hemp, and silk, made with no chemical treatments.
Holding the place as the first Indian designer to present during Milan Fashion Week, Vaishali S debuted her collection “Ancestral Threads” for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. Nature’s exquisite detail and traditions of Indian weaving served as inspirations for gorgeous pieces in a rainbow spectrum, which displayed awe-inspiring three- and four-dimensional sculptural silhouettes. With special attention to sustainable materials—like traceable cotton and West Bengal silks—and a love for experimentation, the designer inspired awe with a detailed approach that seemed as if her materials had been sculpted by hand into pristine pleats, pintucks, and floaty, flora-reminiscent shapes.