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This week in Milan, fashion houses are presenting their collections for Fall/Winter 2021. Below, we’re sharing details on the latest from Etro, Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, and Loro Piana.
Etro’s abundant patterns and worldly influences returned for the upcoming season with a collection embracing an independent aesthetic, presented in an industrial space covered in its signature paisley motifs. Looking to the free-spirited icons Rudolf Nureyev and Jimi Hendrix for inspiration, the house drew from a combination of the dancer’s sophistication and musician’s signature indie style to create its latest designs. We saw a range of elements referencing the worlds of both creatives, like Russian ballet-inspired motifs imagined as prints, patchwork coats and brocade suits, waistlines cinched with embossed metal buckles, and tie-dyed trousers imagined in baggy corduroy. Styled with flat boots and Pegaso camera cases to suggest a wanderer’s spirit, looks we’re still thinking about include a three-piece pinstripe suit in an ash brown color; a mini skirt with quilting and embroidered details, paired with a bib-collared blouse in green; and a long coat in swirling red paisley, given a streetwear attitude with the addition of a hoodie peeking out from underneath.
Kiton drew from the glamor of 1930s Hollywood for the season, adapting the mood for a taste of modern luxury. Foundations from menswear—fabrications, silhouettes, and styling—were applied to comfortably elegant designs for women. The collection saw suiting imagined in masculine cuts and proportions, like boxy jackets and loose-fitting trousers. Dresses were long and roomy, typically cinched at the waist with a belt or a tie. Executed in a palette of earthy neutrals and a host of Bauhaus-reminiscent prints, highlight looks included a matching suit worn with a long bow around the neck and a brown overcoat; a cream collared wrap dress paired with tall striped boots; and an all-white tuxedo look including a double-breasted jacket, a silk-lined duster, and matching loafers.
Brunello Cucinelli proposed a union of pleasure and balance in its latest collection, which featured a palette of light and bright hues in relaxed silhouettes. Proposing a new idea of what is formal, the house surpassed notions of aesthetic and function to focus on what feels good—a refined comfort. We saw breezy outerwear styles layered over spacious pants, slouchy-fitted blouses and sweaters, and soft dresses with elongated hems. A favorite element was the tactile combinations, seen through looks like drawstring pants and a fuzzy sweater in taupe, a grayscale look featuring a knit dress and a textured cardigan, paired with boots and gloves, and a look of white hues composed of trousers, a button-up shirt, and a long crocheted duster.
Jewel tones, monochromatic styling choices, and silhouettes embodying a sensual simplicity were the mainstays of Loro Piana’s Fall/Winter 2021 womenswear debuts. Clean lines and minimal details informed styles created in rich fabrications like baby cashmere, silk, shearling, and lambskin, including pieces like ribbed knits, printed dresses with A-line skirts, buttonless outerwear style that fell past the knees, and fluid trousers paired with blousons. Standout designs included an all-over emerald look composed of matching knit trousers, sweater, and an overcoat; a dress with a softly pleated skirt featuring a black and white print; and a pants-and-turtleneck combination topped with a puffer jacket, all imagined in a hue of warm pink.