Go inside the worlds of art, fashion, design, and lifestyle.
With Milan Fashion Week underway, Whitewall is giving you a look at the Fall/Winter 2022 collections debuted by Moschino, Tod’s, Kiton, and Brunello Cucinelli.
Kiton imagined the story of a well-traveled woman to inspire its Fall/Winter 2022 collection, “A New York State of Mind.” Chic, professional, and carefully crafted, the house employed its own menswear tailoring techniques, perfected over the years, to create the collection’s easy-moving sartorial silhouettes. We saw looks for day and night made with a complete wardrobe in mind, ranging from suiting to long and elegant dresses. Prints like houndstooth and plaid suggested an affinity for classic dress, though memorable hues like red, mint, and blue made ensured that statements could be made. Looks we loved included a trousers, jacket, and overcoat ensemble in beige, worn with heels; a floor-length gown in scarlet with a collar and tie at the waist; and a pairing of wide-legged pants in brown, a cream blazer, and a seafoam turtleneck, accented with a peach leather handbag and olive pointed-toe shoes.
For the upcoming season, Brunello Cucinelli applied its pristine sartorial craftsmanship to a suit-centric collection for the modern woman. Fresh neutrals like black, ivory, gray, and brown were the chosen colors for garments, which were neither inherently mannish nor overtly feminine. Supple fabrications that fell gently over the wearer’s body made up the suite of looks composed through generous layering and pleasing textural combinations of shearling, sequins, wool, leather, suede, and silk. Silhouettes were clean and classic (like full-legged trousers, double-breasted blazers, trapeze turtlenecks, and button-up blouses), painted with contemporary accessories and understated details including athletic footwear, printed neck scarves, glittery pinstripes, and textured quilting. Looks we loved included a checked skirt and jacket worn with a leather bomber and a beret; a suite of suiting in winter white; and a chunky sweater accented with sequins, paired with a wrap skirt and tall leather boots.
The Italian heritage of Tod’s was seen in its Fall/Winter 2022 line, which looked at the culture of creating a wardrobe with a unisex attitude in mind. Knits were a focal point for the season, employing warm neutrals for styles like a ribbed dress that zipped up the front, a sleeveless pullover in brown, and a look combining a textured knit mini dress and a puffer in hues of neutral yarn. While we saw a variety of styles ranging from fitted to oversized, each was made special with an attention to detail—exemplified in color blocked outerwear with mixed materials; coats with extra belts, ties, and lapels; quilted leather with opposing piping; and shirt collars fastened with tiny chains. Highlights included the opening all-black ensemble worn on the catwalk by model Gigi Hadid, featuring fitted pants, layered jackets, and a handbag and loafers to match; a trench and knitwear pairing in shades of brown, styled with a leather-and-knitted bag and a pair of dark riding boots; and a coat in terra cotta worn under a voluminous knitted shawl that hung off one shoulder.
The embodiment of a finely decorated home was what Moschino’s designer Jeremy Scott had in mind when crafting its Fall/Winter 2022 collection. The house’s playful approach to fashion brought us wearable home décor this season—with some pieces taking the idea of “wearing it on the sleeve” literally, while others bore a more subtle hint of their point of origin. As one might expect to find in a grandiose domicile, we saw grandfather clocks, heirloom serving platters, ornate dressers, and crystalline chandeliers—all seen through looks, like a black beaded dress with an asymmetric skirt and miniature chandelier earrings; a top made from a gilded silver tray, worn with black gloves and trousers; and a ruched column gown with two miniature clocks adorning the wearer’s shoulders. Other wearable artworks include a draped gown in red velvet with a thick upholstery throw, skeleton key details, and a miniature armchair headpiece; a gorgeous tapestry-turned-dress, depicting ladies in historical garb; and a strapless gathered gown in a golden wallpaper print, paired with a champagne bucket purse.