Milan Fashion Week SS21: Fendi, DSQUARED2, Dolce & Gabbana, and More

Debuting its Spring/Summer 2020 men’s and womenswear together, Fendi’s Creative Director Silvia Venturini Fendi looked back on family memories from generations in Rome to inspire the season. Serene and romantically domestic, the collection shared nods to family keepsakes passed down and laden with stories, seen in details like eiderdown quilting, embroidery reminiscent of handmade bedding, and materials like linen and cotton. Invoking imagery of a dewy dawn hour and intimate morning conversations, a selection of natural, flaxen hues alongside colors like cardinal red and sky-blue painted silhouettes made to remind us of the elevated comforts of home—like flared tunics, apron dresses, and embroidered housecoats. Things we’re still thinking about include a white coat made with intricate lattice weaving, delicate accessories like soft logo socks and gloves, and the season’s accessories like picnic baskets and the Peekaboo bag reimagined in floral fur.

Aviator influences with a nod to punk style were the inspirations behind DSQUARED2’s Spring/Summer 2021 designs. The house’s signature tailoring appeared in new volumes (like a pair of amply cut trousers with floor-length hems and a camel-colored double-breast overcoat, paired with a yellow slip), as well as a black skirt suit with cutout details at the hem. Sensual elements like open backs, sheer lace, and strappy details were combined with more utilitarian styles, like a pair of oversized cargo pants with zipper details worn with a black lace mock neck top and a bodysuit styled with strappy heels and a cropped pilot’s jacket in green. Looks all incorporated a thin leather strap motif on sandals, imagined as belts and body harnesses, or adorning bags.

Dolce & Gabbana’s “Patchwork di Sicillia” offered a tribute to Sicily in a whirl of vivacious prints and colors for Spring/Summer 2021. Patterns and fabrics found in Palermo, Catania, Siracusa, and Agrigento—a mixture of materials like brocade, poplin, chiffon, and georgette—compose the patchworks that make up each of the season’s designs. Silhouettes paid tribute to the house’s 1993 collection, which itself looked to the fashion of the 1970s. Highlights included a long gown ending in tiered ruffles made from prints like cheetah print, polka dots, and floral; a look with long culotte-style shorts and a jacket covered in pins; and the matching accessories accompanying each design, like head wraps, patchwork boots, and large fabric flowers.

Nº 21’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection catered to both men and women, coming to the realization that the language of fashion is changing. While the feminine and masculine remain distinguishable, lines of silhouette, color, and volume are beginning to blur. Slight elements of androgyny were infused into pieces like pantsuits, largely cut sweaters, and formal jumpsuits, opposed to dresses. Suitable for any wearer, we saw elements like canvas pants, cashmere tops with open backs, masculine shirt cuts, vinyl trench coats, and feathery details extending from the backs of sweaters. Standout looks included a purple chunky knit sweater with a feathered skirt; a billowing jumpsuit in lavender with a section detailed with pearls, snaps, pins, and chains; and a white suit with a long overcoat, cropped top, and raw edge hems.

For Spring/Summer 2021, Canali took its wearer on an imaginary voyage through the menswear wardrobe. Imbuing a sense of adventure, a suite of looks suitable for many settings were captured against backgrounds like a beach, sand dunes, and tropical greenery. Lightweight and clean pieces paired with elevated sneakers and layers, giving the impression that the wearer is ready for travel at any given moment. Contemporary yet infused with the house’s love for traditional craftsmanship, highlight looks included a bomber jacket and camel trousers, a clean cut hybrid of joggers and a pantsuit in black worn open over a t-shirt, and a pair of white pants styled with a slate colored sweater and an army green take on a warm weather pea coat.