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While fashion week as we know it may forever be changed, houses in Milan are still finding ways to introduce their latest seasonal collections—whether in person or online. Here, we’re sharing what’s new from Moschino, MM6 Maison Margiela, Bally, and more.
Moschino’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection was presented virtually, staged with Barbie-like marionettes—right down to the miniature audience members like a figurine of Anna Wintour. Created by Jim Henson’s Creature Shop, the “models” were directed down the runway wearing tiny iterations of the season’s designs, which were imagined in a soft palette of pale gold, dusty blue, pea green, and pink. Informed by romantic styles of dress from the past, there were details like petal-esque draping, corset boning, and ruffled skirts updated for contemporary dress through elements that once would have remained hidden, like exposed tulle underskirts, exterior pocket flaps, and external seams and hems. Highlights included a dress in gold tones with an exposed bodice structure and a shiny jacquard skirt, left unzipped and trailing behind; a long pink gown paired with a cropped red leather jacket with folded details reminiscent of rose petals; and a fitted dress in soft blue with inside out seams and satiny bows at the shoulders.
Designed entirely from home and debuted via video, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection embraced the current feeling of an alternate reality and its compatibility with the house’s signature trompe l’oeil codes. Familiar elements from a typical business wardrobe warrant a second look, upon which unusual details come into view—a cropped denim waistline sheathed over a maxi skirt, tall boots with structured legs that appear to be pants when worn under long dresses or coats, and a roomy dress reminiscent of a chair cover. The idea of the “business on top, party on the bottom” (perfect for those at-home video conference calls) has been taken literally, seen in designs like a jumpsuit with a pinstripe V-neck top, a classic camel trench coat cropped at the waist, and a plunging-neck bodysuit worn with plushy gray sweatpants. The season’s accessories offered a playful take on proportions and shape, like enlarged cotton totes, tiny schoolgirl satchels, square-toed sneakers, and hybrid leather flats that can be worn three ways.
The film Daydream introduced Bally’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection, “Elemental Balance,” which focused on ideas of the endurance and power of things handmade. Looking at the relationship between humans and the environment, the designs highlighted a palette of earth tones and natural materials like raw raffia, micro-woven leather, and interlaced straw. For women, there were elegant, sophisticated silhouettes like bias-cut silk dresses, relaxed tops in linen, and mariner-style knitwear, shown alongside accessories like a tote with the signature “B” cutout in leather and sandals with leather ankle fringe. Menswear highlights included printed shorts sets, belted trench coats, and elevated leather like a blazer style jacket, paired with pieces like a lattice leather handbag, B icon sandals, and a two-toned backpack with brown leather details.
Entitled “Life in Technicolor,” Salvatore Ferragamo’s latest collection focused on pristine craftsmanship and entrancing colors. Influences from the eerie and suspenseful work of Alfred Hitchcock were present throughout, as well as within the short film by Luca Guadagnino that accompanied the collection. At a time when the unexpected is now occurring every day, the maison crafted a series of garments fit for every turn of events—including silhouettes like a comfy-but-chic fitted sets, slouchy jumpsuits for men and women, matching suits, and elevated dresses with tiers of softly hanging satin. Pieces we’re still thinking about include an orange top and skirt with an overlay of horizontal rope-like fringe, an all-green men’s suit with deep forest-hued shoes, a matching pants and collared top in plaid, and a feathered skirt and vest, paired with eye-catching peep-toed heels.
Debuted with a dreamlike film set at a lake house, Emilio Pucci’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection “Sulla Riva” embodied sophisticated beauty and soft elegance. A selection of clean silhouettes with whimsical elements like softly pleated plissé, high-rise briefs worn as bottoms, long ribbons tied at the neck, and sheer material covered in delicate embroidery were imagined in all-white and patterns in hues of pale yellow, soft blue, salmon, and orange. Prints from the house’s archives were revived for the season, like in effortless palazzo pants, bandeau tops, and A-line dresses—each styled with opaque tights and strappy sandals. The season was complete with a collaboration with the Japanese designer Tomo Koizumi, who has redefined the style of Marquess Emilio Pucci for the contemporary wardrobe in a selection of sculptural organza creations reminiscent of giant flower bouquets.