Milan Fashion Week SS22: MM6, Sunnei, Marni, Pucci

The muses of MM6 Maison Margiela, among them, Claude Cahun, Leonora Carrington and Dorothea Tanning, were felt in their spring/summer collection that featured a circus-inspired take on this season’s aspirations of going back out. Gloves and bold prints defined the collection, with checkered pieces that were punctuated with pleated collars and corset style tops. Monochrome looks were given dimension with satin varsity stripes, while a metallic dress was accessorized with white gloves hanging beside its tent shaped skirt and a backpack from MM6 Maison Margiela’s collaboration with Eastpak. Standout looks included a cobweb top laced under a black blazer and black leather pants dotted with yellow shoes and gloves. 

For Sunnei, it was all about the bags. The brand embraced easy to wear, corresponding sets that exaggerated what most of us have found ourselves wearing. With flowing trousers, hoodies, and buttoned shirts Sunnei’s looks likened themselves to pajamas and loungewear. Some sets were solid colors, while others featured soft floral prints or daring stripes. The brand’s use of bags seemed to anticipate that as we go out more frequently, we will want to take with us everything we’ve consumed ourselves with for the past year and a half, nothing is left behind. The pieces were tactile, beyond aestheticism, everything seems to serve a purpose. 

Francesco Risso and Babak Radboy lead the creative direction of Marni, taking us on vacation. The pieces were lightweight, with elongated sarong skirts that left cutouts in the legs and poncho cover-ups with fringe hanging around the ankles. Bright floral prints and stripes made the clothes feel easy, but intentional. Daisies were used to symbolize regrowth, a new beginning. Some looks were layered, with swimsuits worn over pants and a turtleneck, or a swimsuit left undone over swim trunks, all thrown under a striped cardigan. 

Emilio Pucci had a vision for the modern woman, to hop aboard jets and be a cool traveler without the burden of trunks and trunks of necessities. Pucci’s spring/summer collection was an ultimate example of this vision, with beachy looks that were only one or two pieces each and had a particular focus on cutouts and the negative space that clothes leave behind. Sets were in pastel colors, often matched with stronger neutral tones. Dresses with their own takes on halter straps and swirling paisley prints called back to 1990s style dressing that so many people are playing with now. Bandeau tops offered dimension to shift tunics and straight cut wide leg pants. A standout look featured an olive toned swimsuit set with a bandeau top and high waisted bikinis under a colorfully beaded sheer slip dress. The feathery sandals that went with each look emphasized the lightness that Pucci hoped for his clothes to have, a breezy, unbothered wearer who need not worry about putting together a complete outfit.