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Milan FW18: Krizia, Furla, Aspesi, and More

During Milan Fashion Week, we saw designs on both ends of the spectrum. Whether your tastes are bright and bold, or perhaps more refined, below are some of our favorites.

N° 21 brought its new collection to the runway in a parade of sophistication and everyday glamor. Creative director Alessandro dell’Acqua drew inspiration from the crossover between sport and spectacle for the brand’s “Majorette” collection, influenced by a performer with baton in hand, only to then return home when the show is over to her daily routine. While some aspects of the collection are bold and contradictory (like the mannish silhouettes, pops of color and sequins, or the boxy majorette hat paired with an oversized sweater and simplistic slip dress), they still manage to maintain a certain level of relatable allure. This, more than ever, reflects the working-class woman who knows how to dazzle in her everyday life.

Vionnet Collection

Courtesy of Vionnet

Krizia brings us a motif of graphic patterns, loose silhouettes that celebrate feminine attributes, and the same punkish flare that the brand is celebrated for. Subtle influences from the brand’s past collections (like an aggressive attitude toward glamor, and a subversive mood) can be seen in the pieces, yet slightly reimagined for the 21st century. Metallic knits, sheer mohair, and optic designs challenge conventional luxury, making sure that the Krizia wearer delivers a powerful statement.

Women pushing themselves to meet expectations can be a journey laced with fear, fragility, and uncertainty. But as we know, women are also strong, beautiful, and curious. Inspired by metamorphosis, particularly of a mermaid, Vionnet’s new collection celebrates the rich complexities that come with womanhood. Using a variety of elements (like combat boots in the brand’s signature print, draped knots, 3-D fish scale patterns, and plenty of tulle), Creative Director Goga Ashkenazi embodied the strong sides of the femininity, keeping the brand’s focus of sustainability at the forefront with some modern designs crafted from plastic recycled bottles.

Krizia Collection

Courtesy of Krizia

A chic palette of blushes, beiges, and wine hues made up Agnona’s collection. Exuding modern minimalism, the pieces (all styled modestly with soft hair and a berry lip) are complete with meticulous details and a hyper-feminine and ultra-noir mood. Inspired by the original Blade Runner film from 1982, the mid-calf length dresses, long overcoats, and loose trousers had an attitude that nodded to luxurious sportswear.

For the brand’s new collection, Aspesi embraced subtlety, honesty, refinement, and the sublime attitude of not standing out. Instead, Aspesi ensured sophistication and timeless fashion. With a focus on staying true to oneself while keeping up with current times, the collection features military inspirations and a love for uniform (seen in pieces masculine coats and loose, wide-legged overalls). Keeping up with the brand’s standards for high-quality textiles, each piece is crafted from materials like Irish wool, Harris tweed, and Scottish plaid. Powerful, but never overpowering, each piece in the collection is praised for its integrity and authenticity.

Furla Collection

Courtesy of Furla

And the search for statement accessories ends with Furla’s new collection. Freedom, independence, and poetry are what the four designs (the Furla Polar, Furla Bomber and Furla Arctic bags, and the WonderFurla sneaker) of the line embody. Both the bags and sneaker are light and playful, with sporty influences that create a sense of ease. Shiny metallics and bright rainbow colors represent the greatest luxury for women of today—the ability to listen to one’s own voice without fear.

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Minjung Kim

THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
2023

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