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This week in Milan, we saw an array of Spring/Summer 2019 menswear presentations. Here, Whitewall takes you through a list of highlights from the new collections.
Weightlessness was the theme of Ermenegildo Zegna’s SS19 presentation. The collection featured the refinement of couture tailoring paired with the ease of movement given by sportswear. Each look was bold yet personal, framing the perfect picture of the contemporary metropolitan wardrobe. Models glided down the narrow runway in airy garments while facing the Oscar Niemeyer building, which was surrounded by water on either side.
Pal Zileri took the idea that vanity—something deeply rooted in contemporary society—is the distortion of the awareness of self-determination. The collection featured a series of pieces (like a crest-emblazoned blazer, pinstriped trousers, and other distinctive twists on garments) that may be associated with an aristocratic upbringing. This suggested different points of view in which vanity is actually the privilege of looking within oneself.
Santoni presented a collection of lightweight shoes, undeniably the house’s signature product of steadfast Italian artistry. Materials like soft crocodile and unlined calf complemented the simple lines of each timeless style, like the boat shoe, and loafer. Completing the collection was a simple palette of neutral colors, like taupe, sand, and light gray.
Sunnei’s latest collection brought us to the crossroads of innovation and tradition. The relaxed silhouettes and geometric details offered a modern spin on classic garments, like a capacious take on a gray overall and a jacket with a block-striped collar and cuffs. Many looks in the collection were completed with a burst of bright color—seen in shoulder bags and athletic shoes.
ISAIA’s newest collection “Ue Ue Power” was named after “Ue Ue”—a commonly used expression in Naples. Skillfully reinterpreting the bright colors and motifs of the 1970s, the collection featured patterns like floral and plaid, but with the evident sophistication of Neapolitan tailoring.
ETRO‘s new menswear collection epitomized sustainability. Textiles made of natural fibers, dyed by vegetable, and creating by local production highlight the visual cultures of Southeast Asia, Africa and Japan. Patterns were inspired by Japanese bamboo, the motifs of Iban cloth from Borneo, Batik-dyed fabrics from Indonesia, and West African wax prints. Throughout the collection, we see hints of these cultures in details like kimonos, wide belts looped around the waist, and woven shoes.