Milan Men’s SS22: Etro, Brunello Cucinelli, Kiton, and More

Etro’s more-is-more attitude and abundant aesthetic returned for Spring/Summer 2022 with the collection “Travelling in a Joyful State of Grace.” A tribute to the musician, artist, and thinker Franco Battiato, an inspiration in the life of Kean Etro, the new designs invite the wearer to take a metaphysical trip beyond time and space that focuses on the journeys of the mind and heart. A spectrum of colors like lively blues, greens, and oranges accompanied by darker hues and silver accents painted imagery of sunrises over a citrus grove, summer sorbets, and a mystifying dusk scenery. Styles and silhouettes for the fashion-forward dresser included loose shirts worn open at the chest, matching sartorial sets styled with printed tops and detailed accessories, amply-cut trousers belted at the hips, and the house’s signature upholstery-reminiscent prints styled head-to-toe. Looks we’re still thinking of include an ombre green-to-lime ensemble with a paisley button up hanging loosely over a long-sleeved tee; a pair of cotton trousers styled with a white and blue graphic blouson, a lightweight trench, and studded shoes; and an all-over printed pairing with activewear influences, styled with sneakers, a choker, and a shoulder bag.

Brunello Cucinelli found the elegance in simplicity for its Spring/Summer 2022 collection of timeless menswear staples. Careful attention to detail and looks built on mismatched individual garments made for diverse styles that exuded either a casual flair or a notion of understated dandy. Soft neutrals and earth tones set the palette for classic garments like knit cardigans, blazers, and tailored trousers, as well as styles updated with the slightest edge—like jeans rolled at the ankle, a pleated-front take on cargo pants with gathered ankles, and a leather biker jacket. Standout looks included an all-white pairing with a striped tie and brown leather jacket; a double-breasted suit in a pale stone hue; and a cream blazer, shirt, and tie paired with elevated cargo joggers.

A longing for lightness both spiritually and physically brought Kiton to ideas of simplicity and the aesthetic of the Italian garden as the inspirations for its Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Looking for comfort in the bare minimum, the house turned to weightless, easy-moving fabrications like washed silk, linen, and cashmere jersey to imagine its selection of elegant, quintessential menswear pieces. Tailoring was made airy and more comfortable by barely fitted silhouettes and just-above-the-ankle trouser lengths. Matching suits were worn over lightweight knits and button-ups, styled with either loafers or leather sneakers. Utilizing a summery palette of hues like turquoise, terra cotta, and breezy neutrals, styles we loved included a set in a nude and white plaid, pinstripe pants worn with a blazer featuring a graphic logo on the sleeve, and a double-breasted suit in khaki paired with suede buckle loafers.

Launched to embody the more progressive side of Kiton, KNT (Kiton New Textures) introduced for Spring/Summer 2022 a collection of elevated streetwear that intermingles ideas of informal and formal. The house has created a suite of offbeat garments that encompass influences from across the board, including sportswear and classic menswear staples, executed in a palette of just five colors—black, white, orange, blue, and anthracite. There was an array of solid colored garments that gave off an effortless, cool attitude both in silhouette and styling—like a rain-poncho-reminiscent duster paired with shorts and a t-shirt; and a white bomber with black details, styled with nude joggers and high-top sneakers. The collection also debuted two new highlight styles, the UC01 and UC02 (where UC stands for Unconventional), which each combine the blazer with a hoodie and bomber jacket, respectively.

Presenting together its men’s and women’s collections, Woolrich continued its focus on a wardrobe that fosters a relationship with the outdoors for Spring/Summer 2022. Shared through a visual journey of images capturing the gaze of four main characters, the collection is focused on the two separate settings—the city and nature. Defined in two drops, the first suite of designs “Outdoors Reinterpreted” was created with unexpected weather in mind and centers vibrant colors, all-over prints, and versatile silhouettes, including key styles like the orange camo, military-inspired Easton Field Jacket, and the water repellent Trek Printed jacket. The second drop, “Refined Americana,” looks to utilitarian garments made for enjoying outdoor activities, seen across designs like the printed Ranger Paisley overshirt and the unexpectedly soft-hued Military Cotton bomber.