Milan Men’s SS22: Fendi, Santoni, Canali, and More

Inspired by the 360-degree view of Rome from the top of its headquarters, the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear debuted a focus on lightness, ease, and luxury. A palette of transient hues mimicking a pastel sky and soft summery flora was applied to clean, comfortable silhouettes that steered slightly away from the typical menswear oeuvre through details like cropped tops, shorts in place of pants, and the introduction of the tunic. Perfect for the warmer months, styles remained light and airy through the use of boxy cuts, lightweight fabrication, and styling choices—including pieces like colorful sandals, statement eyewear (like a suite of swim goggles in collaboration with ARENA), lightweight sneakers, and floppy hats. Looks we’re still thinking about included an all-over green look featuring a cropped tee and a belly chain, a knitted shirt bearing a special FENDI Earth motif worn with cargo shorts and a bag bearing a cartographic drawing of the city, and a gossamer overcoat styled fastened over shorts.

In a quest to redefine daily wear, Santoni brought us a collection of men’s shoes and accessories that combined notions of formal and casual for the upcoming Spring/Summer 2022 season. Warm, brown tones familiar to the house’s roots in fine Italian leatherworking were seen across a selection of loafers in several styles (including Penny loafers, and single and double-buckle iterations), as well as the inclusion of a reversed suede in a cheerful sky blue. We also saw three takes on a sleek leather sneaker and two bags in soft, supple calfskin—one in Adriatico blue and one in Collina brown—ideal for a quick weekend getaway or business trip.

Canali looked to Los Angeles in the 1990s to inform its latest menswear collection. Pulling from dreamy imagery of the city’s greenery, sunsets, and the cultural influences within its many neighborhoods, the house chose a palette of soft greens and airy neutrals, combined with deeper blues and pops of hot pink to embody the diverse nature of the Canali man. Comprised of three design concepts, the collection highlighted precious materials like buckskin and suede in the Exclusive pieces, the elegance of the Los Angeles Hills is exemplified in the 1934 designs, and Black Edition was pulled from the city’s street art and music scene. Standout looks included a two-piece navy suit worn with a striped t-shirt; a pair of drawstring slacks in khaki worn with a lightweight cream blazer; and a mock neck knit top with a black zipper, paired with classic black trousers.

Tod’s introduced its latest collection “Under The Italian Sun” with a film shot at the Mario Botta-designed Cantina Petra in Italy’s Tuscan countryside. Pairing an attitude of nonchalance with facets of modern craftsmanship, the season’s inspirations pull from the work of the late Peter Beard, known for his photographic adventures through Africa. There were fresh takes on classic menswear staples, twisted for the idea of an urban safari—like hoodies in suede, trousers imagined with practical details and sturdier fabrications, and several takes on a safari jacket with deep, utilitarian pockets. Highlights included an all-over denim look styled with loafers, the white biker jacket with leather elbow details paired with parachute canvas trousers with drawstring ankles, and a matching button-up and simplistic bomber in dusty red worn with brown trousers and a woven belt bearing a gold “T.”

Titled “Canvas Reality,” Sunnei’s Spring/Summer 2022 designs debuted with a special new concept, building on the unique circumstances from the last year. Launched through a cast of 3D avatars based on the fashion house’s own team, viewers both in-person at Palazzina Sunnei and online were given the chance to be immersed in an audio-visual experience that introduces the new designs. Including a vibrant suite of garments that focused on elevating Sunnei’s signature styles (like a series of non-gender-specific trousers, dresses, shirts, and jackets), the collection is customizable through the experience, encompassing options for choosing and personalizing details like embroidered logos, materialization, color, and for the first time, knitwear.