Underway now, brands at Milan Men’s Fashion Week are sharing their latest collections for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. Here, you’ll find details on what’s new from Prada, Fendi, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, and Versace.
For Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the maison focused on the power of context and juxtapositions to inform designs meant to highlight choice. Set to scenography evoking a countryside environment (outfitted with farmhouse windows and the occasional bolt of draped gingham), Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s new garb was at once direct and recognizable, whilst emitting an air of the unexpected. Youthful and fresh, silhouettes were reduced and uncomplicated—collarless shirts, cropped trousers, light fitted shapes—and patterns recalled childhood and cozy domesticity, like checks and plaids. Things we’re still thinking about include a crewneck denim romper, a suite of checked dusters, and the playful quality of pairing brief shorts with leather boots.
Nostalgia and innovation created the push and pull that was apparent in Fendi’s menswear debuts for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. “It’s about a balance of decoration and simplicity,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi of the collection. “An ageless sense of freedom to play, as we rediscover the luxury of free time.” In this vein, a distinctive palette of brown, tan, denim, blues, and pops of mustard vaguely echoed ideas of utilitarian uniform, while details in silhouette and styling upheld a certain elevation—forms were boxy and relaxed, imagined in lightweight knits, paneled denim, and soft calfskin, and adorned in elements like raw feathered hems, interlocked “F” motifs, and recurring cowhide patterns. Highlights included a Peekaboo jacket with a built-in water bottle holder, a utility coat with a triangle pocket detail, a series of bucket hats accompanying each look, and a line of jewelry holding iconized iterations of souvenirs from Fendi family vacations.
From the looks of Missoni’s latest, the house holds style and comfort at equal value, unwilling to compromise on either. A series of energetic styles brings anew the iconic Missoni knits—seen for the Spring/Summer 2023 collection in invigorating iterations like black and white zig-zags, pinstripes, illusory horizontal lines, and chevrons incorporating pops of yellow, blue, red, and other hues. Pieces like cardigans, pullovers, jackets, shorts, and trousers were kept simple and classic, allowing comfortable shapes to carry over into a multitude of occasions—like a three-piece set in monochrome yellow knit; pants, blazer, and tee trio in grayscale stripes; and a bowling-style shirt in vibrant zig-zags.
Titled “Re-Edition,” Dolce & Gabbana dove into its own archives to inform Spring/Summer 2023. To execute this concept, the house offered fresh context to garments borrowed from the 1990s and early 2000s, styled anew for the picture of the contemporary menswear wardrobe. Each piece was outfitted with a special “Re-Edition” label (bearing its original year of conception along with the Spring/Summer 2023 tag) in looks like cigarette trousers and a tee reading “Sicilians are Sensational” cinched at the waist with a sort of belted cummerbund; an ornate blazer embroidered with roses, styled with matching loafers and white, wide-legged pants ripped down the front; and a buttery white ensemble featuring a tank top, a slouchy summer cardigan, and flowing white bottoms, worn down the runway by a barefooted model.
With Versace’s new collection came a collision of two opposing styles—pop and baroque. Imagined with vibrancy, there was generously layered styling combining textures like silk, latex, and leather, painting ample shapes with opposing prints, like slouchy trousers with pinstripes worn under a hot pink trench, or a shirt printed in marble busts with lime green pants, matching shades, and a duo of tote bags carried in the hand. Several looks were styled to include objects from the Versace home collection as prized possessions—like a model clad in a black suit with gold jewelry, holding an ornate urn in one hand. “When I work, I think of Generation Z and the freedom they have in not being afraid to mix contrasting pieces together,” said Donatella Versace. “Pop-art meets classicism—contrast like this is everything to me, it makes you think and feel.”