Milan Menswear SS24: Gucci, Prada, Fendi, and More

As we speak, brands in Milan are presenting their new menswear collections for the Spring/Summer 2024 season. Here’s what’s new from Gucci, Prada, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, and DSquared2.

The introduction of Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection fell on the anniversary of the house’s iconic Horsebit loafer, bringing forth a temporary immersive installation called “Gucci Horsebeat Society” in lieu of a runway show. At Milan’s Spazio Maiocchi, the house and curator Alessio Ascari conceived a special presentation featuring the work of 10 international creatives—including names like Harry Nuriev, Gyuhan Lee, and Blatant Space—that focused on Gucci’s equestrian roots, taking viewers through a contemporary, counterculture iteration of a country club. After making their way through unique installations like Nuriev’s conceptual patio, Sylvie Fleury’s 1988 Bedroom Ensemble II, and a space dedicated to Tom Ford’s 1995 cherry red Horsebit pump (all incorporating some version of the horse bit motif), guests arrived at a “closet,” where the new designs were seen on mannequins in a space outfitted with special wallpaper by Ed Davis. The collection itself gave off a vaguely retro-futuristic feeling that kept menswear archetypes feeling sharp and elevated, but with a hint of “otherness”—like double-breasted suiting with elongated jackets, sets in monogram prints, sailor collars and flared pants, and several utility jumpsuits with a flare of dramatics.

The thesis behind Prada’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection was clothing as fluid architecture made for and around the body. Choosing to liberate the wearer through simplicity, the designs centered soft, lightweight pieces that moved easily and challenged preconceived notions of function and purpose—an intriguing juxtaposition to the harsh, utilitarian notched steel that made up the show space and runway. The ensembles that were introduced presented a clean, modish appearance, made nearly entirely with matte, solid-colored fabrics and an essence that was at once familiar and new. Staples of the season included classic shirting that informed other styles—like blazers in summer fabrics worn with nothing underneath, boxy overcoats imagined sans buttons, and button-ups that featured elongated sleeves—high-waisted tailored shorts and skinny trousers, tops and utility vests abundant with pockets, and accessories like clear protective eyewear, supple leather shoulder bags, and loafers with squared toes.

While most fashion houses were introducing their latest in Milan, Fendi chose to share its Spring/Summer 2024 menswear designs just outside of Florence, at the Fendi Factory—its space dedicated to artisanal leather goods. Set against the shelves and workstations of the factory and a soundtrack of ambient factory noise created by Nico Vascellari and Rocco Rampino, a collection made to express the idea of the corporate artisan unfolded. A palette reminiscent of a Tuscan landscape saw hues of burnt umber, terracotta, sage, limestone, and deep indigo painting a selection of linen, unbleached cotton, plongé, and nubuck leather. These elements were applied to pieces informed by a blend of office attire and the uniform of a craftsman who works with their hands. Tuxedo shirts became collared halters, polos were fitted into bodysuits with patches of skin left bare at the hips, and overalls were worn with straps down around the waist. There were also jackets with details like cargo pockets and tape measurers sewed in, aprons reformatted into everyday garments, and tool belts and boxes turned into fashion accessories.

Entitled “Stile” (“style”), Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection was an evolution of house codes, updated to respect the identity and expressions of the contemporary wearer. In a restrained color selection of tones like milk white, camel, black, pearl, and stone gray, the house’s latest silhouettes—ranging from fitted and concise to spacious and detailed—took elements from the quintessential menswear oeuvre to create new styles. Tees and tanks were constructed from tightly sculpted drapery, tuxedos informed pants with tall, wrapping waistbands, blazers took on new shapes (like a vest that just covered the shoulders of a sleeveless button-up underneath), and pajama-like shapes were imagined as supply-cut sets for daytime wear. Meanwhile, more straightforward styles were embellished with a range of floral details, like large fabric petals on lapels and buttons, as lasered cut-outs, and as tiny appliqués scattered over entire garments.

A new Co-Ed collection for the Spring/Summer 2024 season walked the runway of DSquared2 over the weekend in Milan. The house’s more-is-more signature collision of styles pitted preppy sportswear pieces with the more daring and risqué side of fashion, resulting in a collection of garments that were unexpected and interesting. Polo jerseys and striped shirting, lingerie and leather, cardigans around shoulders and fitted dinner jackets, the Rolling Stones logo and micro silhouettes—these were just a few of the opposing elements that came together on the runway to offer up new concepts of dress. Standout looks included an all-white lacy ensemble featuring a mini dress sewn to resemble underwear worn on top, a matching jacket and athletic-cut shorts in navy tweed featuring a washed denim hem and details like loafers with tube socks and a clutch made from parts of a sneaker, and a polo jersey in pink and beige with the lower half made from opposing striped fabric styled with denim shorts, argyle socks, and brown leather loafers.