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In Italy this week and last, we got an eyeful of fall/winter 2018 menswear in Milan shows, and in Florence presentations for Pitti Uomo. Below, we’re highlighting some of our favorite designs.
Marni kicked off the week with a high note, showing a collection infused with some kind of wonderful wanderlust-meets-nostalgia. Models of all ages and backgrounds proved the brand’s open-minded nature, where a wide range of proportions and playful designs—like tweed, plaid suits featuring large squirrel, bird, and cartoon dog appliques—evoked innocence and a desire to follow your intuition.
Once again, Prada wowed us with an AMO-designed set called “Prada Warehouse,” thematically organized to show off the brand’s industrial side, shown in sectors by themes. The house debuted “Prada Invites,” a project that invited four renowned designers—Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, Herzog & de Meuron, and Rem Koolhaas—to create an item, focusing on the industrial side of the brand’s DNA and using only black nylon fabric.
In addition to Fendi’s new offerings (which had a new sideways take on the capital “F”), the brand welcomed a special collaboration with guest artist REILLY. The art director and digital artist reinterpreted a full patchwork print featuring the brand’s iconic FF logo, material samples from the new collection, and select pop imagery. A handful of pop prints featuring imagery and text with words like “family,” “faithful,” “fancy,” “freedom,” and “fabulous” were also introduced.
Canali showed a new collection that highlighted unique silhouettes. Suit jackets were nipped to the waist, coats were fluid, and canvas blazers were light to the eye and on the body. Asymmetrical pea coats stood out, as did military-inspired parkas, leather carryalls, and a range of seasonal hues.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture focused the new collection on snow, with frozen landscapes created by artist Thomas Flechtner. Strong, yet soft silhouettes complemented the brand’s traditional categories, which caught our attention in knitwear, matching blousons and trousers, and unexpected neckties worn as double-knot scarves. Special for the new collection, as well, were deerskin tote bags designed by Alessandro Sartori, featuring the iconic XXX logo hand-painted on.
N°21 took us on a bit of a journey. We witnessed the brand’s dream of sunny California landscapes (while giving off a desolate road trip vibe) in many of the new pieces. Full of essential attire, the new collection boasts lots of warm plaid parkas, heavy cotton, and sturdy trousers—tied off with a Western nod around the neck. “It’s a collection of clothes that I like to call classic, basic, essential, necessary, said creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua. “I hope with this to compose a new way for men to dress, one free from the arrogant trappings of male dominance.”
Palm Angels reminded us that “American Gothic” is still alive and well. Different cultures met in the middle, forming a look for Western-meets-punk. Bold and unexpected, the conventional and rebellious looks were spunky (and spiky). Five-pocket jeans, Western shirts, zip-up jackets, demure dresses, and studded purses dangling from the waist were all seen shaking up the American dream.
We also caught ISAIA‘s new collection, “Casalnuovo Collection,” which was inspired by the tailoring traditions and craftsmanship of Casalnuovo. Textiles and materials (like denim, cotton, jersey, tweed, and cashmere) reflected the extraordinary men’s tailoring found in the Neapolitan city, with draping inspired by the 1950s and ’60s. Seasonal colors of burnt umber, camel, and gray tones set the collection at sophisticated ease.
In Florence at Pitti Uomo, we caught Brunello Cucinelli. The new collection, shining with traditional elegance, highlighted the both modern and unconventional inspirations. Authentic and contemporary shapes and forms stayed true to the brand’s iconic aesthetic, only slightly adjusted to include new proportions for a fresh new take.
Also in Firenze, we caught the expertise in tailoring with Corneliani’s new collection. Effortless style enveloped new looks of functional outerwear, refined leisurewear, and approachable businesswear. Muted palettes and soft shapes offered men a collection that they can wear often, cherish longer, and grow with.