We’re continuing our look at Paris Fashion Week, focused on new Spring/Summer 2019 collections from brands like Miu Miu, Gauchere, and Thom Browne.
Miu Miu’s striking show at Palais d’Iéna began with a reveal of a brand new symbol. The new “MIU MIU” lettering, boldly reimagined by M/M (Paris), gleamed in white with a round new typeface, standing tall as the main attraction before the show. With its new shape, the three-dimensional sign acted as a creative invitation and pillar throughout the show—videos of girls pronouncing “M,” “I,” and “U” were projected onto its façade, while models walked around it. In the collection, we saw girly details exaggerated with rose bows making up the side ends of dresses, rhinestone-lined sandals, and open-choker necklaces featuring danglings of both. Sheer tights and satin platform shoes were paired with leather tops and gathered skirts; sequins and strands of glittering beads were seen making up thick trim for denim dresses; double-breasted leather trenches had enlarged collars and buttons; small bags, purses, and clutches were carried and swung with ease; and necklaces and oversized sunglasses showcased the house’s emphasis on bows and rhinestones.
Courtesy of Miu Miu.
Inspired by the hues and textures of the desert, Gauchere’s new collection showed 30 looks in designer Marie-Christine Statz’s signature suiting—menswear-derived pieces like tapered jackets and pleated trousers. In a natural light-flooded room, as music by Dirk Bonn set the tone of the show, models wore oversized garments belted or taken in at the waist and V-shaped silhouettes in materials like lightweight techno fabrics, linen, silk, nappa leather, and wool. Coats, suits, and dresses, some with capes and others with boxy sleeves or buttons, were seen in shades of crème and mint or patterns of stripes or checks. Sophisticated but certainly more standout than subdued, the looks invited women to approach the office life with after-hours attitude.
Thom Browne’s new collection was a celebration of being good at being bad and being bad at being good—always under the sun. The designer’s iconic American preppy style was exaggerated and elaborated on for a day at the beach, featuring looks with whale motifs, magnified anchors, and saturated hues of blue and pink. Proportion was taken to new extremes (seen with frills at the wrist-line, now down to the ankles), and transparency played peek-a-boo with enlarges starfish, gingham checks, and whales. On a handful of looks, the pattern popped off the material—lush greenery was cut in strips, begging for attention on tops; orange and white strips of fabric hung from its checkered pattern; and a train of pineapple-clad white material trailed behind. As models finished their walk on a swimming pool set, they made their way past the lifeguard stand to stun in masks and hats—like dripping ice cream cones and a tall pineapple headpieces.
Courtesy of Miu Miu.
