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This season Miuccia Prada seemed to want the Miu Miu woman to be many things. Her models first appeared at the center of a metal catwalk accompanied by the reverberating boom of a subway train. They sported slicked-back double buns and fresh faces (save for their rather vampy, oxblood, ombre-effect lips). Though the collection’s focus appeared narrow, its core being dresses, coats, and parkas, the inspiration ran the gamut, spanning across time periods and trends.
For instance, rubber-soled heels featured deep tire-like grooves which gave models the appearance of being in constant danger of tipping over. Aside from that, side button closure were on much of the footwear, even pieces with center zippers, a detail that clearly drew inspiration from Victorian era women’s boots.
The abundance of lengthy hems and cinched waistlines reinforced Prada’s allusions to Victorian and Edwardian style. One fitted, long sleeve, black dress abruptly flared into a flounced polka dot hem, and, coupled with a fully neck-concealing top portion, fell right in line with modest early 20th-century sensibilities.
Even the parkas and coats of the collection were lengthened. Elongated hems were then treated to severe belting right above the natural waistline, creating a silhouette similar to that of a woman wearing a corset.
Another standout piece was a pink sheath dress with black polka dots. The long sleeve dress featured a concealed front slit, a belted waist, and an off-center button and zipper detail. What was most eye-catching about the dress, though, was how cleverly it was accessorized. It was paired with Prada’s modern take on an Elizabethan ruff and then layered with a polka dot scarf. Small touches like this made the show a delightful collision of several different historical eras and trends.