Continuing our look at London Fashion Week, we’re highlighting some details from new collections by MM6 Martin Margiela, Molly Goddard, and Chalayan.
At MM6 Maison Margiela this season were elongated hoodies, attached capes, long satin gloves with webbed fingers, and large ruched bags worn across the body. Set in a dark room designed by Derek Hardie Martin, with models power-stanced next to a large, fallen crystal chandelier, the new collection had luxurious fabrics and dark, edgy accessories. A nod to social and political responsibility was carried through the line, inspired by the AIDES shirt created in 1994, with a focus on 20th-century charity balls. Sustainability also took a turn with dual meanings—reusing fabrics, such as the vintage garments that were appliquéd to cotton sweatshirts—and the idea to reuse and re-appropriate community movement and change. Masculine takes on feminine silhouettes were exemplified by looks like denim trousers worn under satin capes tops, pleated skirts to the floor paired with sandals and socks, and a lavender sleeveless tuxedo jacket with a cape. Pops of magenta, sweet shades of pastel green, and stark black created head-to-toe looks—some tapered at the waist with a thick waist belt, adorned with the label’s name.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016.
For Spring/Summer 2019, London-based fashion designer Molly Goddard dressed models for the FOMO-inspiring party we’ve been waiting all week for…only to be asked to go to the market first. As fun looks trickled down the runway, models passed by market stalls made by Goddard’s set designer mother, Sarah Edwards, as if asked to run errands before a soirée. Women in dresses, skirts, and tops made their entrance in floral patterns, unique cuts and shapes, and an array of colors like the return of red-orange, a khaki-taupe, and layered, transparent blacks. There was an explosion of expression, too, with daisy patterns, baby doll prairie dresses, and the designer’s signature details of “MG” initials and frilled trims. The designer was just awarded the British Fashion Council/Vogue Fashion Fund Award in May. With that momentum and these designs, we’re sure there is so much more to come.
Spotlighting historical events from around the world, Chalayan presented its Spring/Summer 2019 collection, “Pendulum,” full of fabrics and prints that portrayed these attitudes. Lightweight fabrics like a wool-cotton mix, Japanese jerseys, and denim were seen with printed textures, stripe and grid patterns, bag-like pockets, and unusual cuts and asymmetrical hems. Hues ranged from muted whites and grays to soft yellows and dimmed oranges, and a striking blue, too. Shoes included espadrille-like sandals and wedges with hemp bottoms and spiked straps around the ankles.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016.
