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In seemingly the most appropriate setting, in terms of brand and weather, Moncler hosted their New York Fashion Week show outside this year—at Lincoln Center during a polar vortex. Upon reaching the plaza’s steps, guests could not see the runway outlined at all, wandering their way around, looking for warmth, and, well, models. After we were eventually ushered to one side, we noticed photographers lining the steps of Lincoln Center, and just behind them, large stadium lights.
While Moncler’s invitation said to arrive at “6:30 p.m. SHARP,” by 6:45 p.m., nearly everyone was either freezing or guzzling hot cocoa—an offering by the Moncler crew to stay warm while we awaited the start of the show. A thumping, military-like tune drew everyone’s focus—finally—to the marching men and women pouring into the plaza in single file, all dressed in blue from head-to-toe. Designed to highlight the choreography often associated with American college sporting events, 40 male and 40 female athletes moved in technical, synchronized order to the command of a sergeant. With every shout, a whipping turn would ripple through the lines, or turn the course of the direction entirely.
Although a spectacle, some guests began to leave before the first half of the presentation concluded, due to the way-below-freezing temps and late start. Only after the presentation’s introduction were we allowed a closer look at the fall/winter 2016-17 collection (a few items of which this editor could have used).
The large collection was broken into three sections: High Performance, Performance & Style, and Après Ski. Practical materials designed to withstand the very harshest of weather conditions were seen in skiwear garments and lighter down, creating slimmer silhouettes for a change. The menswear was inspired by the looks of film stars in the ‘60s—such as James Bond in the 1969 flick On Her Majesty’s Secret Service—and took an organic approach to clean silhouettes with skiing and mountaineering gear. For women, we saw lacquer-effect embroidered textures, and a series of interesting fabrics: stretch elastic, soft yet durable fleece, and wax-finish materials. Additionally, we saw snowboarding garments for the first time with larger proportions and snug hoods that fit over helmets.
The collection as a whole amounted to luxurious leisurewear for indoor and (maybe more importantly) outdoor, too.