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“Uniforms without uniformity” is Mulberry’s tame but sharp tagline. The rebellious spirit of Johnny Coca, the brand’s captivating creative director, is alive and well at London Fashion Week, and certainly vamping up the brand’s British foundation with a recalcitrant twist.
“Classic, but unclassic,” said Coca of the collection. “There’s always a reference to British heritage, but it’s about how we can use tradition to make it feel modern. How we can break the rules to make it new.” Coca presented Mulberry’s spring/summer 2017 collection on September 18 in London at Printworks—a former printing factory for various London newspapers, and now a filming hotspot. The event marked the first fashion show held inside.
For the special occasion, Mulberry debuted a collection that touched upon the different notions of “Britishness” between the heritage that lies within its founding in Somerset, and the contemporary embodiment that thrives today in London. We saw many contrasts from the nation’s varying juxtapositions and the society’s many notions fused together. Handbags and footwear—both of which exuded a sweet cross between ladylike and gentlemanlike styles of the eighteenth century—played a key role, with many shining through British colors and uniform-like shapes, while still keeping classic Mulberry utility-friendly designs at the forefront.
Contemporary proportions on clothing allowed for the collegiate Oxbridge prints to stay true to its signature characteristics and notable colors, including oxblood, racing green, navy, and peregrine-beak yellow.
With paisley prints and Mitford-style florals, pastel hues and ruffle details, Mulberry gave us a decorative, authentic collection to wear in our most rebellious, or respectful, outings.