Menu

  • Art
  • Lifestyle
  • Fashion
  • Design
  • Sustainability
  • Homepage
  • Whitewall Presents
  • Whitewaller
  • Insiders

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Subscribe to the Magazine

Presents

New York

Calida Rawles: On the Other Side of Everything

Newsletter

Go inside the worlds of art, fashion, design, and lifestyle.

Ok
Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection
Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection
Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection
Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection
Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection
Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection
Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection
Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection
Fashion

The Music of Atlantis: Iris van Herpen and the Art of Wonder

By Erik Martiny

July 7, 2017

As usual, Iris van Herpen astonished show-goers with her innovative mise-en-scène, breath-taking musical accompaniments, and mesmerizing outfits. Her fall/winter 2017-18 haute couture show was held in a 19th-century Parisian palace, the renowned Bouglione Winter Circus.

When the show began, we were plunged into cellphone-spangled darkness. In tune with the circus installation, we were then treated to a jaw-dropping display of underwater creatures when the lights came up. Playing custom-built musical instruments or singing in a series of man-sized aquariums were musicians from the Danish experimental group known as Between Music. The result of this submarine orchestra was bewitching, to say the least.

Open Gallery

Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection

When the models walked in, we were fully transported to Atlantis, listening in rapt attention to the music of the spheres and sirens. Had the outfits not been as spectacular as the sound and sights, the mermaid musicians would have stolen all the thunder. Thankfully, van Herpen’s vestimentary inspiration was up to her usual sky-high standards.

The first looks were a cross between dresses and ankle-length coats, but this is inadequate to describe what was really more like a striped and latticed elfin shimmer. These were followed by ribbed, cocoon-like, waving dresses of beige, white, and black. Some of the outfits evoked fish fins, gills, or spawn, clothes you might expect a mermaid princess to wear in her undersea palace.

Open Gallery

Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection

Later dresses, forged out of mylar and cotton, were closer-fitting, evoking metallic scales or ripples on the surface of a liquid silver pool.

Shoes were made out of suede; their chunky heels latticed out of welded metal creating a biomorphic molecular look that perfectly matched the outfits.

Open Gallery

Iris van Herpen haute couture fall/winter 2017-18 collection

The showstoppers were kept for last: two awe-inspiring dress-sized ornaments that effervesced off the body like a coil of floral bubbles.

Between MusicBouglione Winter CircusErik MartinyIris van HerpenParisParis CoutureWhitewallWhitewaller

Recommended

Fashion |September 16, 2021

NYFW SS22:Thom Browne, Eckhaus Latta, Oscar de la Renta, PatBo

Our ValuesContactAdvertiseTerms
© Whitewall 2020

Go inside the worlds of art, fashion, design, and lifestyle.

Subscribe to the Newsletter