During this season’s New York Fashion Week, a litany of the city’s finest labels presented bold, inspired visions of where style will go next. Designers cited everything from Mount Etna vineyards to ‘80s fantasy films as sources of inspiration, yielding shows that were alternately relaxed and maximalist. We’ve compiled some of our favorite Spring/Summer 2025 collections from beloved houses including Eckhaus Latta, Phillip Lim, Naeem Khan, and moe.
Markarian Honors Childhood Nostalgia
Courtesy of Markarian.
Courtesy of Markarian.
For Markarian’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, designer and founder Alexandra O’Neill looked to her childhood summers in Long Island. “My sister and I spent our days running around our grandparents’ backyard dressed in matching outfits,” she said. “We were endlessly obsessed with the whimsical worlds and costumes of classic ‘80s fantasy films like Labyrinth, Return to Oz, and The Neverending Story.” This nostalgia shows up in pale yellow gingham, matching dresses, eyelet trims, and hand-beaded florals. Classically youthful motifs and fabrics are imbued with a renewed sense of modernity; exaggerated ruffles, oversized bows, and puff sleeves lend a theatrical femininity to crisp cotton dresses.
Eckhaus Latta Goes Back Into the Archive with Depop
Jemima Kirke. Courtesy of Eckhaus Latta.
Jemima Kirke. Courtesy of Eckhaus Latta.
To celebrate its new Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Eckhaus Latta hosted an intimate dinner in Tribeca which doubled as an announcement of the label’s new partnership with Depop. Celebrity guests and VIPs donned archive pieces sourced from the secondhand marketplace, while Julio Torres, King Princess, and Moses Sumney styled looks from the label’s newest collection. Comedian Kate Berlant kicked off an impromptu runway during the dinner, prompting other attendees to take a spin strutting between the dinner tables.
3.1 Phillip Lim Celebrates Its Twentieth Anniversary with “Memories of Joy”
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com. Courtesy of the photographer and Phillip Lim.
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com. Courtesy of the photographer and Phillip Lim.
On Sunday, 3.1 Phillip Lim took to an industrial space in the Meatpacking District to debut an ethereal new collection full of loving references to the signature details that have defined the label for the last twenty years. As co-founder and creative director Phillip Lim put it, this collection celebrates the brand’s “memories of joy.” Hand-crafted rosettes hearken back to the label’s 2007 collection; crystal fringe and oversized lace tops similarly nod to the label’s past. Still, the Spring/Summer 2025 line looks forward: loose-fitting jeans arrive in neon green, and a couple wrap skirts are micro-length.
Inspired by Italy, Naeem Khan Opts for Shimmering, Unbridled Maximalism
Courtesy of Launchmetrics and Naeem Khan.
Courtesy of Launchmetrics and Naeem Khan.
In a former synagogue furnished with stained-glass windows and dramatic arches, Naeem Khan revealed a shimmering, sophisticated Spring/Summer collection of evening dresses and menswear. The designer was inspired by Italy for the label’s newest line, citing the Sicilian Baroque architecture in Noto, the coastlines of Puglia, and the vineyards of Mount Etna as references. This time around, the label opted for relaxed, oversized silhouettes—but Naeem Khan’s visual language of unfettered maximalism remained steadfast, manifesting in the crystals, beads, and embroidery that embellished many of the dresses.
Coach Envisions a More Relaxed Kind of Luxury
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com. Courtesy of the photographer and Coach.
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com. Courtesy of the photographer and Coach.
On a stretch of the High Line close to the label’s headquarters, Coach showcased a Spring 2025 collection that imagines a new vision of luxury. Classically tailored blazers and chinos are exaggerated to create unexpected proportions; ‘60s-inspired cocktail dresses are cut to very low hems. Oversized jackets crafted from upcycled leather come already scuffed, nodding to the new generation’s love for lived-in attire, and the brand’s signature bags are more capacious than ever.
“So many elements of this collection come down to personality,” said creative director Stuart Vevers. “We’ve taken very archetypal pieces and made them unique to the wearer, with the proportions, with the styling, and with very playful embellishments that call into question the idea of traditional ‘luxury.’ I think what’s more valuable today is something that’s personal.”
