Last week, New York Fashion Week kicked off with a euphoric start, basking guests in a contemporary celebration of the American dream. Here, Whitewall delves into the details of riveting presentations by Alaïa, Khaite, Brandon Maxwell, and more.
Alaïa Unveils a Sensual Meets Sporty Spirit at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
Opportunity and obsession worked hand in hand at the Alaïa Winter-Spring 2025 runway presentation. Unfolding at the majestic Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, the trailblazing maison filled the transcendent realm with vibrant new perspectives on American Beauty. Invoking a forever love of American sportswear and pioneers such as Halston, Claire McCardell, Adrian, and Charles James, Alaïa immersed guests in a highly sculptural catwalk. A flurry of geometric masterpieces danced atop the body like poetry. Luxurious fabrics like silk taffeta, double-face cashmere, sculpted poplin, and fine knits in dreamlike hues of butter yellow, tranquil lilac, and blooming pink brought an ethereal jubilance to the new collection. Sporty moments from an asymmetrical denim trench coat to bandeau bras in second-skit knits made for a thoroughly contemporary meeting of reality and fantasy.
Khaite Invites Guests on a Decadent and Amorous Voyage for Spring/Summer 2025
Khaite enveloped guests in an amorous voyage through tone, texture, and material at the Spring/Summer 2025 runway show. The illusion began with a ravishing, cream-colored gown that ebbed and flowed from neck to ankle like ribbons of shining whipped cream. The skillful display of drapery played out in sheer and opaque intervals in a cropped shirt with oversized trousers, as a regal lilac bedroom number, and a golden-hued top that gracefully bared the shoulders with filmy pants. An ankle-length satin overcoat in a shimmering shade of champagne evoked mysterious midnight adventures, while an airy off-white sleeveless v-neck blouse with crispy, pleated trousers was both ethereal and professional. Leather suiting in the form of a cropped jacket, fitted vest, and knee-length shorts took the cake in polish onyx, set off with the most charming pair of sleek sandals enhanced by multi-colored beading.
Brandon Maxwell’s Cool, Calm, and Collected Spring 2025 Catwalk
Brandon Maxwell’s Spring 2025 catwalk was supremely cool, calm, and collected, masterfully choreographing points of restraint and peacefulness into a serenade of fresh American style. The enduring purity of white was poured into elegant evening attire with translucent suiting and barely there knits, while details like the silver sheen on a textured belt and the supernatural crystals on a diaphanous, knee-length skirt bathed us in a heavenly state. Skin is in, as was made evident in coordinating low-slung skirt and cardigan sets in citrus or white, as well as in the form of a deep-V pastel pink gown which caught the light for illusory effect. A delightful bevy of jackets, including a long and boxy leather piece with extra-large pockets, an easy, breeze see-through trench coat, and a supple trench coat with options for deconstructed style sparked a dialogue on the needs and desires of the contemporary woman—moving from work to play with resounding freedom and confidence.
Off-White Brings Unbridled Emotion to Streetwear in New York
“DUTY FREE” was the overarching theme of the Spring/Summer 2025 collection by Off-White, steeping guests in an expressive show of emotion, progress, and spirit. Fueled by the late Virgil Abloh’s opulent home of Ghana, a vivid juxtaposition of African futurism and American athleticism unfolded, offering an evocative, earthy palette of powerful looks. Garments embraced the body in lively, vertical pathways, with stunning evidence of hand-painting, embroidery, and hypnotic decoration bringing a new polish to the everyday. Clever tailoring kept each look perfectly practical, while a hypnotic new men’s uniform was born. Creative Director IB Kamara imagined a melody of zippers, shredded denim, breathable mesh, and sporty jackets elevated street style with striking moments of starry camouflage prints and whimsical character-printed t-shirts. Provocative belts, otherworldly earrings, and distressed leather handbags with chain detailing called forth a magical renaissance of dressing for pleasure, with maximum respect for the human heart.
Willy Chavarria’s Dynamic Ode to “AMÉRICA” for Spring/Summer 2025
The ever-inspired Willy Chavarria rejoiced in our nation’s beaming potential with a fierce Spring/Summer 2025 runway show titled “AMÉRICA.” Dynamic musical trio Yahritza Y Su Esencia commenced the presentation with a live performance of “Querida,” a soulful cover of Juan Gabriel’s iconic 1984 song. In three mesmeric chapters of Fine Fashions, Willy Produce, and Community Center, Chavarria unveiled forward-thinking shapes of Italian cotton sportswear. In a debut collaboration with adidas, 22 kaleidoscopic looks further interlaced the realms of fashion and sportswear with bold and romantic flourishes. A deft revisualizing of the adidas archival “Jabbar” sneaker—initially produced in honor of basketball legend Kareen Abdul Jabbar—was also spotted on the runway. Notable partnerships with Allen Edmonds, the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU), and the effervescent Willy Chavarria x Tequila Don Julio Capsule Collection culminated in a catwalk brimming with cultural connection and celebration.