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Nicolas Ghesquière Imagines Futuristic North Star for Louis Vuitton

Last night in Paris, the women’s designer of Louis Vuitton’s collections, Nicolas Ghesquière, presented his tenth-anniversary collection, centered on the creativity he has shaped in the past ten years.

The Creative Director of Louis Vuitton’s women’s collection, Nicolas Ghesquière, realized his pure imagination last night for the Fall/Winter 2024 show. For his tenth anniversary with the maison, he returned to the Cour Carrée courtyard at the Louvre Museum where he presented his first collection.

An Atmosphere for the Future

To recount the past decade of fashion at Louis Vuitton, the house worked in collaboration with artist Philippe Parreno and film production designer James Chinlund to conceive a monumental set, accentuated by a soundscape by the sound designer Nicolas Becker.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

From the start, guests were immersed in a world unknown—a place where time felt boundless, and our existence felt tied to each other, technology, and the experiences of life’s unforgettable moments. The atmosphere was set for the future, centered by a gigantic glowing sphere with wire emerging from its sides, strung onto surrounding columns. A white catwalk divided by sections appeared below, as Etudes sur voix mmxxii by Flavien Berger began to play. 

Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2024 Collection

Louis Vuitton

Courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

A transcendental feeling washed over the crowd and viewers were reeled into the experience, basking in the glow of the great white sphere that visually danced with light above. From the start, it was apparent that the environment for Ghesquière was intentional, that he designed the flow of the show as a retrospect meets real-life debut—an amalgamation of his time at the house, pulling from reflections and references over the past decade. Silhouettes, prints, cuts, and styling choices particular to Ghesquière crept in, then made way for new looks tied to 2024.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

The first few models appeared on the runway, immediately showing that Ghesquière’s tenth-anniversary collection may be known for its accessories. Gloves with flamboyant fringe dangled past the fingertips; a crystal-adorned tiara or an eye mask of embellishments graced the head; square-toed boots guided direction, balancing the feminine and masculine; and new handbags of all sizes and silhouettes were seen. 

Divine Details by Nicolas Ghesquière

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

Many of the first garments seemed to be focused on ease and practicality, with zip-up parkas meeting unfussy skirts with oversized pockets, and weather-resistant jacket dresses zipped to the chin featured cinched waists. Then, a new fantastical focus found its way to the stage through a combination of elegant and playful materials, like sequins and fur. 

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

In the presentation’s notes, the collection was overall described as following one’s own North Star, an essential compass for any curious traveler. Ghesquière’s has shown him the right direction, lighting the way for a decade of fashion that has evoked hope, happiness, and a reflection of where today meets tomorrow. And so for Fall/Winter 2024, his imagination was re-lit, showing earlier affinities with newer nuances, from embroidery to innovative closures.

A Closer Look at the New Collection

As the show faded into Disco Science (Electrobreak remix) by Mirwais, garments and accessories were electrified with the energy of now. A monochromatic look of icy blue was accentuated with silver accessories; a sheer, high-low dress adorned in sequins was paired with oversized fur gloves and boots; and a top and skirt set bearing the same pattern—a Louis Vuitton monogrammed trunk—caught attention for its protruding structural details.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

Small and extra-large handbags were carried by hand and across the body, showing a wide range of styles that embraced technical construction and the soft ability to just fold into themselves; and shoes, from zip-up boots to heeled mules and everything in between, graced the floor with elegance and spunk through color, material, and shape.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2024, courtesy of Louis Vuitton.

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THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
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Whitewall's Winter 2024 cover story spotlights the artist just as his time with the L’Académie des Beaux-Arts Residency was wrapping up.
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