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New York Fashion Week is underway, and we’re highlighting details from some of our favorite presentations. Below, we spotlight Spring/Summer 2020 collections from Longchamp, Prabal Gurung, and Christian Siriano.
At the Hearst Plaza in Lincoln Center, Longchamp presented its latest line—Creative Director Sophie Delafontaine’s third collection. The Juilliard School served as the runway’s backdrop, as the show’s runway surrounded the reflection pool. Stadium seats were built into the lush walkway that angled down the façade of the school. Passing by was the Spring/Summer 2020 collection—recalling the colorful works of artist Judy Chicago, mixed with Parisienne sophistication. Inspiration came from the 1970s and ‘90s, blended to resonate with an active lifestyle. A feminine palette of colors was infused with a flirty attitude, and patterns and graphics exuded a bohemian spirit. Dégradé silk and frilled panels complemented leather belts with bamboo adornments. The impression of sun-bleached garments was heightened to reflect the sun’s movement, seen with a print of a sundial on many garments. Special for the collection, as well, was a new interpretation of the Roseau carryall—a staple in the house’s collection for more than 20 years—and a mini (and nano) version of the Le Pilage.
On a modern set with florals and flags handing from above, Prabal Gurung celebrated his 10th anniversary—20 years after moving to the United States. The new line presented a question to today’s uncertain times, and an answer to the question, “Who gets to be American?” In his collection notes he mentions he was born in Singapore, and traveled to Nepal, India, London, and Australia before landing in New York City—all in search of the “American Dream.” For Spring/Summer 2020, he questions the notion of looking American vs. being American and re-defines American as a “New America.” Here, in this beautiful land undoubtedly leaving behind a new legacy, is where his new collection flourishes. And quite literally, actually, first with blossoms of live florals atop models’ heads and largely adorning tote bags. Furthering that idea is an homage to the national flower (the rose, designated as so in 1986) with a pastel camouflage rose print. Throughout the collection, we saw inspiration from an array of American reference points—from vacations on the Gold Coast to moms on the subway—in patchwork cutout dresses, drop-waist tea-length gowns, and strapless dresses made almost entirely with ostrich feathers. For the finale, the 60 models (all of diverse races and nationalities) walked as if beauty queens in a pageant—this time with florals poking out of dresses and sashes that questioned, “Who gets to be American?”
At Gotham Hall, Christian Siriano presented his new collection with stars like Lucy Liu, Sarah Michelle Gellar, and Alicia Silverstone lining the front row. Everyone was, per usual, there for Siriano’s inclusive fashion—an array of styles that fit nearly every size and shape both on and off a runway. Presented amid large-scale artworks by Ashley Longshore (who painted throughout the show in the back) were looks inspired by the modern Pop artists of today. Whimsical textures and colors swept the runway floor, as dramatic eye and lip print textiles were seen on several looks. Evening wear got an updated, with a modern twist for the ever-changing woman—and man. We thoroughly enjoyed the bright and romantic looks on the ladies, but a high note was seeing a powerful man dressed in a black strapless bodice-like top with tailored trousers.