We’re highlighting details from some of our favorite presentations and shows during New York Fashion Week. Below, we spotlight Spring/Summer 2020 collections from Pamela Rolland, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Lela Rose, and Jonathan Simkhai.
With the Pamella Roland woman as a muse for Spring/Summer 2020, the brand reimagined its own classics, updating the luxurious aesthetic with frills, bold and soft colors, and an array of variations of a flower motif. Texture took the forefront this season, the signature ombre sequin reappearing with the addition of dyed pearls and 3D flowers—seen on looks like a floor-length dress in purple with feathered details, or a black gown with frills, ruffles, lace and sequined flowers. Simple fitted silhouettes were updated with a lively flair—like one-shouldered cuts with large ruffles and flounces—and the power pantsuit made a statement in silky iterations, including a blush look covered in head-to-toe pearly flowers (our favorite).
Taking into account the influence of female subjects in the practices of artists like Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali, Alejandra Alonso Rojas’ new designs were created to honor the strength, beauty, and power of the female figure. Embodying a graceful, leisurely feel, the collection’s designs were made to caress the form with ease. Hemlines were long and soft, a natural waist was lightly accentuated, and material choice reinforced an easy-going attitude that highlighted the body of the wearer—seen in pieces like a white dress layered handkerchief skirt; a body-hugging dress in an ombre knit; and a pairing of high waisted shorts worn with a textured undershirt and matching jacket. The collection also featured collaborations with artists, including jewelry designer Aurora Lopez Mejia, who creates hand inscribed wearable art.
Lela Rose’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection was a love letter to New York City. Presented on an outdoor runway laden with golden flower petals, the designer took notes from vintage postcards, using a palette of colors like sunshine yellow, sky blue, and blush to highlight the blooms, greenery, and lively feeling present in New York during the warmer seasons. In line with summer happenings like a picturesque picnic in Central Park or an evening gala outdoors, the collection featured lightweight knits, loose and airy silhouettes, and several iterations of a simple sundress—like a yellow cotton and drop waist design. Pieces we loved included the dresses in dreamy dotted lace with the flower detail on the shoulder, and the matching pajama style pants and blouse in a postcard print.
Captivated by Georgia O’Keeffe’s work Grey Lines with Black, Blue, and Yellow, Jonathan Simkhai’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection embraced a clean and minimal outlook, painted in the sun-bleached colors of the O’Keeffe’s home in New Mexico. With an elevated loungewear feel and smaller, understated details, the collection was built around a selection of nightwear-redolent garments decorated with dainty elements like rows of tiny buttons, lace trim, and a delicate plissé that mimicked the lines of O’Keeffe’s painting. We took note of a variety of silk slip dresses; a pale blue crocheted gown and matching sweater; and a pair of slouchy trousers in peach, worn with an open button up top and white bra. The collection also featured Jonathan Simkhai’s first line of handbags, which consists of four styles—a belt bag, an oversized clutch, a hobo bag, and a mini cross-body hobo bag.