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As in-person gatherings become safe once more, New York Fashion Week has returned in full swing. Here, we’re looking at the latest collections presented by Alejandra Alonso Rojas, Ulla Johnson, Collina Strada, and Sergio Hudson.
Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s latest is a tribute to the designer’s great-great-aunt, who was one of the earliest women pilots in 1931. A lively palette of solid jewel tones looked to the many places she traveled, while literal elements from her uniform (aviator straps, parachute seams, pilot’s caps, and utility pockets) were infused as sophisticated details on a series of long, lean silhouettes. We saw fabrications like textured knits, leather, suede, and flowy silk composing casually luxurious silhouettes that draped gently over the form—like a long white gown with gathered sleeves styled with a cap that fastened under the chin, a pair of wide-legged trousers and a crocheted sweater in yellow, and a suede dress with crocheted detailing in blue. A special Japanese dyeing technique (Shibori) incorporating stones and ropes was used to create understated patterns on some garments, while the designer opted to hand dye pieces like a red-to-coral gradient parachute gown. The collection also featured a collaboration with the jewelry designer Monica Sordó, who created for the season a series of buckles, straps, and clasps, which were seen adorning many looks.
Within the abundant flora found at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, Ulla Johnson introduced its Spring/Summer 2022 collection, which looked to celebrate the wonders of the natural world. Earthy tones like sun-bleached citrus, lavender, muted green, and ocean blue embodied the colors of the outdoors, while silhouettes juxtaposed intimate details like sheer materials and corsetry with oversized cuts, unbuttoned layers, and floating flounces and frills. With shapes and patterns inspired by the landscapes of the artist Joseph E. Yoakum, the brand continued its mission to preserve craftsmanship, with many pieces created by artisans in Kenya, Peru, and India. Ideas of sensibility were seen in the outerwear, which included elegantly utilitarian styles like an army green jacket with buttons up the front and a windbreaker in a petrol blue. Simultaneously, these more practical pieces were seen paired with designs like pleated mini dresses or layered looks that intermingle patterns, and flowy garments with lace and puffed sleeves.
Debuted at the Brooklyn Grange, Collina Strada’s Hillary Taymour harnessed the chaotic energy of the times upon us for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Outdoors at the rooftop farm, the house cast models in pairings of family members and loved ones, who were seen walking the runway together in acknowledgment of the importance of togetherness after the separation created by the pandemic. Prints were layered on prints, colors choices included vivacious hues like hot pink, lime green, orange, and blue, and looks combined unexpected pairings that gave off a notion of carefree—like ruffled trains tied over trousers or cargo pants imagined in silk. The confidence and freedom that came with these styling choices were exemplified in looks like a printed blue and white dress with a full skirt and matching printed sneakers, worn by the activist Emily Barker; a pair of looks in hues of green and blue featuring a dress worn over pants and sneakers with beaded details; and a parent and child duo in pink and blue looks, which were completed by accessories made from gems and carabiners.
Opting to present its designs for the Fall/Winter 2021 season, Sergio Hudson introduced a collection centering timeless simplicity and a monochrome aesthetic. Designed for the powerful woman ready to return to the world, the brand found inspiration in a black and white photograph of Diahann Carroll, effortlessly dressed in all white lounging on her sofa. The collection featured ageless silhouettes with a professional flair like a fitted dress with a turtleneck and knee-length skirt in red, a leather blazer with fitted leggings, and a selection of suiting including pants, skirts, and blazer dresses in primary and secondary colors. Additionally, we saw more sensual styles like a purple sparkling gown with its torso cut out and a red dress with a thigh-high split. The season also featured a collaboration with Aurora James’s Brother Vellies, which saw a line of footwear created to accompany the monochromatic looks, including boots in embossed leather, satin, and suede, and pumps with ribbon or buckle closures.