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As in-person gatherings become safe once more, New York Fashion Week has returned in full swing. Here, we’re looking at the Spring/Summer 2022 collections presented by Gabriela Hearst, Carolina Herrera, Moschino, and Christian Siriano.
The Spring/Summer 2022 collection from Gabriela Hearst directed its focus on the beauty of empowering others through its new designs. This collaboration-heavy collection saw drawings by the designer’s friend, Paola Pravato, reimagined as prints and crochet patterns, which took on the form of lively abstracted forms expressing her current circumstances and state of mental health. With the help of Navajo creative Naiomi Glasses, the maison came to work with other women of the Navajo Nation, including the weaver TahNibaa Naataanii, the filmmaker and activist Krystal Curley, who photographed the collection, and the stylist, consultant, and social justice advocate Judy Campbell-Clancy. Employing two South American non-profits for knits and production—Madres & Artesanas Tex/Yelka in Bolivia and Manos del Uruguay—the resulting designs include an array of chic silhouettes with textural knits and crochets, like figure-hugging dresses with full sleeves, two-piece suits with a slightly roomy fit, and a suite of flowing ponchos, shawls, and kaftans. Also of note is the house’s continued steps towards responsible production, which aims to use 100 percent deadstock and recycled materials by its Pre-Fall 2022 collection.
A selection of elevated daytime looks and eveningwear composed Carolina Herrera’s dramatically elegant Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Celebrating 40 years of fashion, the presentation—held within a grand space with checked flooring, stone details, and high ceilings—commenced with a series of black-and-white looks before unfolding a palette of cheerful prints and fabrics in orange, yellow, pink, and blue. Slightly less formal styles include mini dresses and skirt sets like a pink and red gingham look; flowy floral dresses perfect for a garden party or high tea; and a suite of pants and jumpsuits in lightweight materials, like a white look with a double-breasted collar, cinched at the waist with a statement belt. Embracing volume in all its forms, styles suitable for more ceremonious events included a gown in a ravishing hue of red with statement sleeves and a plunging v-neckline, a look in pink satin with a full train and a bubbled top engulfing the bodice, and a black dress in a pencil silhouette with large butterfly frilled sleeves.
Moschino’s Jeremy Scott called upon house archives created by Franco Moschino for the house’s latest collection, “Ladies Who Lunch.” Seen applied to retro silhouettes reminding us of a modern take on the wardrobe of former First Lady Jackie Kennedy was a playful suite of prints, graphics, and appliques that told the tales of sartorial nursery rhymes, depicting characters like a skunk holding a daisy, bears flying kites, and seals balancing beach balls. Classic styles incorporated into the Spring/Summer 2022 season included matching skirt and jacket sets with U-neck collars, A-line mini dresses, and baby doll coats, each seen styled with platform Mary Janes and a softly swept French twist. The presentation was complete with a series of the house’s signature fantasy silhouettes, which included garments like an embroidered teddy bear dress worn with colorful patchwork gloves and a headpiece fashioned from a nursery mobile and a gown that looked like it could be made from a baby’s quilt with a large, stuffed giraffe draping over the shoulder.
In search of a simpler place and time, Christian Siriano embraced the beauty of coastal Italy for its Spring/Summer 2022 designs, inspired by photos of his grandmother from the 1960s and 1970s. Along with classic hues of black and white, vibrant oranges, greens, and yellows painted this selection of glamorous designs, which began their debut after a special performance from the musician Marina. Key elements of the season included dramatic ballgown silhouettes—like a two-piece tulle look in green and black or a set in iridescent copper with a floor-length gathered bubble skirt—stunning minis, and a suite of head-turning suits. Looks we won’t forget include a sheer, tea-length lace gown with boning and a ruffled skirt a black and white geometric suit with white heeled boots, and an asymmetric skirt suit and pointed heels in all-over orange. The presentation came to a close after a preview of an upcoming project with Gloria Vanderbilt Jeans, which saw a cast of denim-clad models moving together down the runway in a suite of jeans and all-over denim looks.