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Otis Kwame Kye Quaicoe, Kennedy Yanko, Reginald O’Neal, and Cajsa von Zeipel

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Photo by Yvonne Tnt, BFA, courtesy of Markarian.
Photo by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Markarian.
Photo by Greg Kessler, courtesy of Rodarte.
Photo by Greg Kessler, courtesy of Rodarte.
Photo by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Prabal Gurung.
Photo by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Prabal Gurung.
Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell.
Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images, courtesy of Christian Cowan.
Photo by Yvonne Tnt, BFA, courtesy of Markarian.
Fashion

NYFW SS22: Markarian, Rodarte, Brandon Maxwell, and More

By Pearl Fontaine

September 13, 2021

With New York Fashion Week coming to an end, we’re sharing a look at some of our favorite debuts for Spring/Summer 2022. Below, you’ll find details on the collections from Markarian, Rodarte, Brandon Maxwell, Christian Cowan, and Prabal Gurung.

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Photo by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Markarian.

Inviting guests to the iconic Rainbow Room, fresh flowers and Tanqueray gin cocktails prepared them for Markarian’s dreamy debuts. Details like puffed sleeves, subtle ruffles, silk brocades, and long hems were seen on classic womenswear silhouettes, which have been imagined in hues like pink, yellow, and pale green for the Spring/Summer 2022 season. Embracing the ceremony, excitement, and intimacy of made-to-order dress, Markarian’s 38-look collection featured highlights like a structured brocade shorts and blazer set with white scalloped details, a pink sweater and skirt set with tiny hearts, and a long sequined gown in mint, cinched at the waist with a thick black ribbon. The collection was accompanied by antique, floral-inspired jewelry made in collaboration with Ciner and headpieces (like a delicate cage veil in white) by Gigi Burris.

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Photo by Greg Kessler, courtesy of Rodarte.

The whimsical beauty of Rodarte took a turn for the Spring/Summer 2022 season, harnessing a different attitude than its recent, more retro-looking collections. While the brand again embraced sweet details like lace, silk, ruffles, and floating skirts, silhouettes and styling took on a futuristic twist that suggested two modes: professional chic and eveningwear. More reserved looks saw cape sleeves and layers of satiny material draped off the body in roomy, rippling designs like kaftan-style dresses, handkerchief skirts, and ample trousers paired with roomy blouses and blazers. Simultaneously, pieces embracing a daring sensuality included a one-legged bodysuit with a cut-out top and cape trailing off the shoulders, several entirely sheer lace gowns, and a dress with its bodice left open to reveal the sides of the torso covered in sculptural, applique flowers.  

Open Gallery

Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell.

Brandon Maxwell gave us a technicolor collection with psychedelic prints and playfully alluring silhouettes for Spring/Summer 2022. Featuring swirling stripes, illusory patterns, and iridescent plissés, the collection suggested a wardrobe fit for the party-ready professional. Pantsuits were viewers with jackets left open over matching triangle bra tops, mini silhouettes were styled with jackets and accessories perfect for an on-the-go transition from work to play, and longer dress silhouettes in eye-catching materializations featured flattering cuts that accentuated the waist. Collection highlights included a shimmery white suit in a subtle print, a strapless pencil dress in orange and green stripes, and a pink pleated collared dress with the luminescence of a disco ball styled with strappy heels and a butterfly charm necklace.

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Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images, courtesy of Christian Cowan.

Looking once again to the club kid for inspiration, Christian Cowan’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection is for those of us yearning to break free after much time spent at home. The designer’s fearlessness brought forth a series of glamorous silhouettes in fête-worthy fabrications like sequins, sparkles, satin, feathers, and fur, seen juxtaposing more classic prints and patterns like checkerboard, polka dots, and houndstooth. Quintessential silhouettes like column gowns, double-breasted blazers, and mini-skirt-and-blouse sets took notes from vintage styles, updated with cut-outs and embellishments to meet the brand’s charismatic codes. Standout pieces included an augmented reality dress made in collaboration with Yahoo! featuring a printed QR code that leads the wearer to an experience with the designer, a handkerchief skirt and halter top in green sequins, and a white gown worn by Winnie Harlow with a split up the thigh, a white veil, and off-the-shoulder sleeves with long trains of feathers sprouting up from the shoulders. 

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Photo by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Prabal Gurung.

Prabal Gurung’s collection “American Girl” was one of hope and optimism embracing the power of girlishness. Focusing on current events in the U.S., like protests, marches, and advocacy, the designer used the Spring/Summer 2022 season as a platform to pose questions like “What does it mean to be the most essential person in this country?,” “What is Feminine?,” and “What is American?.” The result of these questions brought the brand to ideas of confidence, boldness, and authenticity—something embodied in its latest designs through combining the sensibility of sportswear with the beauty of couture. Finding its color palette in the lights of New York City, these muted neons were seen illuminating garments made for those who aren’t afraid to make a statement. Simple tank dresses were paired with fluffy pompom jackets (like our favorite hot pink and plaid pairing) and pants and blouse combinations were updated with athleticwear fabrications and sporty details like a jacket with drawstring closures. Other pieces we loved included a powder blue satin letterman jacket and matching shorts styled with a pair of silver buckle Mary Jane loafers and a strapless feathery dress in white, pink, and yellow.

NYFWSS22

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