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New York Fashion Week has come to an end, but there are a few more shows we’re still thinking about. We’re sharing a look at some of our favorite debuts for Spring/Summer 2022 from PatBO, Eckhaus Latta, Thom Browne, Oscar de la Renta.
Helmed by Patricia Bonaldi, the Spring/Summer 2022 collection from PatBO saw a hybrid of classic silhouettes and organic textures heavily influenced by Bonaldi’s Brazilian heritage. Opening the show, fellow Brazilian native Alessandra Ambrósio donned a pair of white menswear trousers, cut from linen, and made feminine with a netted corset-style waistband and matching bralette top. The collection continued with neutral-colored embroidered dresses and plunging necklines, some with intricate wooden beading, finished off with straw fringe. Drawing from Bonaldi’s past in couture, many looks included tailored, broadened, structured shoulders met with cutouts in the midriff. Slinky, fluid evening dresses were elevated with feathers. As part of the brand’s mission in giving back to Brazilian causes, 10 percent of online sales in the month of September will be donated to Amigos Do Bem, a non-profit organization seeking to improve the lives of residents in the hinterland region of northeast Brazil through the betterment of education, work, and income projects while also promoting access to health care, water, and housing.
Marking Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta’s 20th show, Eckhaus Latta’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection was refreshing in the way that it seemed to anticipate a realistic future—one in which we scrape for resources in environments sort of broken down by climate change. The show was organized by colorways, opening with grayish browns, met with olive and shades of green that turned into bright warm tones, and finished with a breath of milky whites. Undone knitwear and nylon sets left models exposed, literally, but in a utilitarian way. On tank tops and skirts, floral patterns were sparse and delicate, often paired with a series of snaps and closures that suggested the pieces were multi-use. The brand’s continued embrace of gender-fluidity was marked with the lines, “in some sort of viscose fluid / I’m still asleep/ sheer and wet, dry but moist/ no pattern or cadency/ to document passing of time.”
For the first time in four years, Thom Browne returned to NYFW with a meticulous Spring/Summer 2022 collection that exaggerates the best parts of a military school uniform and also celebrates the artistic values of ancient Greco-Roman culture. Presented in three parts, the first included gray, column-cut tunic length or longer tops with corresponding skirts, with one or two layers of dimension. The second was a full multi-dimensional uniform, using different fabrics and variations of pin-stripes. Finally, the collection was enlivened with individually cut tulle pieces in ultra-saturated color. The tone, along with the tendency to exclude some sleeves, was a nod to Greco-Roman statues that were once painted, but now are marble white and often missing limbs. The show, which opened with grand black and white floral capes, was a love-letter to classic tailoring.
While Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Oscar de la Renta now opt out of the use of fur, thanks to a push from Billie Eilish, they opted in for the use of digital media in lieu of an in-person show. The four-minute video presentation of their Spring/Summer 2022 collection is set to Oxytocin by Eilish (who recently graced the Met Gala in a gown by the brand), and featured Soo Joo and Akon Changkou in easy, beachy lemony sets decorated with magnolia flowers. Elsewhere, we found Lulu Tenney in a pink peplum top with mushroom-shaped sleeves and matching shorts getting a $1 pizza. Irina Shayk, in a pink silk button up decorated with the collection’s signature magnolia flowers, ran into Kathy Hilton in a taxi. Bright orange and true green dresses with ruffled skirts, sensible khakis and the same soft pink, but this time in a mushroom-shaped skirt made up the breadth of the collection. A tweed crop top and matching skirt was certified “hot” by Paris Hilton. Candice Swanepool dotted the collection in different flowing gowns before convening in Bryant Park for an impromptu fashion show. The collection was a bright, youthful extension of their Fall 2021, with details that made the pieces personal, but with silhouettes and movement that are undeniably fun.