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With New York Fashion Week at an end, we’re sharing a look at some of our favorite debuts for Spring/Summer 2022. Here, you’ll find details on the collections from Proenza Schouler, Tom Ford, Michael Kors, and Jason Wu.
The Spring/Summer 2022 collection from Proenza Schouler took the form of a romantic utilitarian wardrobe perfect for travel and exploration. With function equally as important as appearance, most daytime ensembles featured some form of layering composed of pants and a dress, or jackets and tunics, ensuring the wearer is comfortable and prepared. Optimistic tones (like red, mustard, and blue) were seen painting entire garments, making up a selection of nature-inspired prints, and creating understated details like fringed hems and the outlines of small cut-outs. Neither oversized nor tightly fitted, dress silhouettes like a simple A-line tank dress and a long mock-neck shift appeared to fit more casual settings when styled with pants underneath, with the potential to dress them up with a change in accessories. There were also a suite of more formal styles like a long yellow dress in sheer pleated jersey and a long-sleeved pink dress with a high neck and buttons up the front. Each look was accompanied by either a pair of thick, sporty Rec sandals or square-toed loafers and accessories like leather handbags and handmade feather lei’s, made in collaboration with the Maui-based creator Patti Hanna.
Tom Ford embraced a casual glamor for his latest collection, following the designer’s acknowledgment of his change in taste, undoubtedly influenced by a return to the U.S. Noting that people seem only to dress up for Instagram anymore—the platform that may be “what saves fashion in the end,” he states—the designer delved into an exploration of what translates best through our limited screens. Finding color to be the most captivating element, the Spring/Summer 2022 collection featured a suite of simple and chic garments that stand out for their solid hues like lilac, aqua, spring green, cobalt, gold, and shocking pink. An elevated sportswear feel was accompanied by fabrications that glistened and sparkled, bringing us looks featuring silhouettes like silky track pants, slip skirts, slouchy basketball shorts, and loose jackets and button-ups left open or tied at the waist. Looks we loved included the ensemble proposed for an untraditional poolside bride featuring gold pants, a bikini top, and a long duster in glittering pewter; a bronze-colored tank dress with layers of heavy jewelry; and the selection of vibrant cargo pants worn with matching heels and black bras.
Celebrating his 40th anniversary, Michael Kors presented his Spring/Summer 2022 collection within Central Park’s lush, sunny Tavern on the Green. Exploring ideas of an urban romance, there were notes from a classic metropolitan wardrobe combined with idyllic details reminding us of retro styles. In an elegant palette of hues like black, white, nude, pink, and baby blue, the brand updated quintessential pieces like double-breasted jackets, long A-line skirts, and lightweight sweaters through texture, pattern, length, and styling choices—like a pencil skirt in cut-out leather paired with a knit triangle top, or a checked mock neck sweater with matching ultra-cropped shorts and a handbag that looked like a leather bucket. Highlights included a set with high-waisted cheeky bottoms, a bustier, and a jacket in gingham; an all-white look with a long lace skirt and clean button-up blouse, cinched at the waist in leather; and a mannish three-piece suit in blue.
Titled “Reverie,” Jason Wu’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection focused on textiles, inspired by the art of craftsmanship and working with one’s hands. Presented within a whimsical floral installation by Emily Thompson, the season featured a collaboration with the fabric artist Cara Marie Piazza, using special, natural dying techniques—like bundle dyeing and techniques using frozen flowers and beetle pigments—coloring the garment’s prints, patterns, and other textiles. Soft, effeminate silhouettes allowed the fabrications to remain in the spotlight, without becoming overcomplicated—including pieces like a simple, sheer black crochet dress or a pleated column silhouette with a muted abstracted print reminiscent of the flowers with which it was made. Other standout designs included a blue and gold silk dress with contrasting black embroidery, a full-skirted gown with a ruffled neckline and puffed sleeves in blue and green tie-dye, and a shorts and blouse set with purple flowers.