With New York Fashion Week coming to a close, we’re looking back on the Spring/Summer 2023 collections introduced by Cucculelli Shaheen, Brandon Maxwell, Monse, Tom Ford, and Cynthia Rowley.
Cucculelli Shaheen’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection “La Trouvaille” debuted at the Bowery Hotel earlier this week, leaving the couture-esque designs to shine in all their exquisite details and beadwork. Translating to “the discovery,” the collection was one of figure-hugging gowns, statement cocktail dresses, and elevated separates, each inspired by the intimate beauty of adventures that remain undiscovered. Deep-V-necklines, clinging slip silhouettes, daring cut-outs, and sensuous sheers shimmered in rich metallics and the occasional green, nude, or coral. Our favorites included a gown with diamonds of skin left bare around the midriff, its pearl-centered sunburst beading continued on a pair of long sheer gloves; a three-piece suit in black with a bra top and astrological beading twinkling like the night sky; and a bridal look in three-dimensional sheer lace with a matching pearl-covered veil.
The Spring/Summer 2023 collection by Brandon Maxwell fused feelings of sophistication with a lighthearted youthfulness that suggested dressing for business and pleasure could coalesce within one wardrobe. Springtime colors and imagery included a palette containing neutrals, pastel pinks and purples, and the occasional chartreuse, along with flora-centric imagery that appeared as sequined motifs, patterned knits, and as a photographic print. Highlight ensembles included a lavender A-line leather skirt that fell to the ankles, belted over a matching cardigan, and a tee with a printed image of a deer; a sequined maxi dress with metallic flowers and bubbly pink Velcro sandals; and a blazer, skirt, and sweater pairing in hues of pastel.
Monse introduced an intriguing collection that reimagined familiar wardrobe archetypes in unexpected ways. Pinstripe suiting became asymmetrical skirts or blazers with tulle trains, summery gingham pairings featured open seams that revealed shirting with bell sleeves and ties that dangled or wrapped around the waist, and cropped hoodies and bucket hats were worn with athletic shorts and rigid mesh and boning that formed pieces reminiscent of historic hoop skirts. Held within The Battery Conservancy’s garden sanctuary, The Bosque, the presentation was hosted in partnership with food rescue organization City Harvest and saw all of the ticket proceeds going back to its programming. The partnership also encompasses the sale of two featured garments from the collection, available for immediate purchase online, which will give all gross proceeds to the organization for the next two weeks.
Glamour and 1980s chic were key elements in Tom Ford’s latest designs. Models walking the runway of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 showcase were styled with the big hair blowouts of the decade, which added to the energy and confidence exuded in the season’s sensual statement looks. Vibrant sequins, lingerie lace, cowboy fringe, sheer drapery, and shiny lame were just a few of the memorable details that accentuated each ensemble. Encompassed in a suite of elevated athleisure, party-ready gowns, and suiting, and looks fit on the town were pieces like a gold and silver gown styled with matching boots, earrings, and a bouquet of gold roses; a sheer look in black with a lace skirt, mesh tee, and tall glossy alligator leather boots; and a pair of tiny metallic athletic shorts with a silky pink top reminding us of something worn by a rodeo performer.
With a dusk-lit Statue of Liberty on horizon serving as a backdrop, Cynthia Rowley introduced a collection where sportswear uniforms and essentials collided with typical notions of what is pretty. The garments saw the intermingling of concepts like cargo pants, wet suits, mini dresses, rugby jerseys, and intimates, combined to create new shapes and styles that were playful and light but thoughtful. These feelings were underscored in styling and accessories, which included pigtails, bucket hats, oversized beaded necklaces, and exciting footwear styles. Standout looks included a parachute skirt in blue split up the middle and styled with a striped cropped turtleneck, a pair of see-through cargo pants with a lacy butterfly top and metallic wedges, and an oil slick wetsuit worn with colorful heels.