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Photo by Monica Feudi, courtesy of Proenza Schouler.
Photo by TIAA, courtesy of Fe Noel.
Courtesy of Coach.
Courtesy of AREA.
Courtesy of Coach.
Courtesy of Carolina Herrera.
Courtesy of Carolina Herrera.
Fashion

NYFW SS23: Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera, and More

By Erica Silverman

September 14, 2022

With New York Fashion Week in full swing, we’re sharing debuts from the Spring/Summer 2023 collections of Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera, Fe Noel, Coach, and Area.

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Photo by Monica Feudi, courtesy of Proenza Schouler.

The Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2023 collection was an ode to life’s many pleasures and seasonal sense memories. The origins of the collection were rooted in a summer brimming with light and happiness, water on skin, and the forward motion of body and soul. Founders Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough combined their life experiences to create a tale of passion and courage in the urban landscape. Tactile fabrics like glossy techno leather and metallic hand crochet certainly caught our eye. Blazing acid hues were grounded by sleek black and white. Knitwear hugged the curves of the female body, overflowing into fringe and ruffle details, accentuating every unrestrained movement. 

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Courtesy of Carolina Herrera.

Ellie Goulding, Martha Stewart, and Maye Musk were among the guests celebrating and wearing the latest in Carolina Herrera’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Creative director Wes Gordon presented a bold and effervescent show, affirming that self-confidence and great optimism is necessary now more than ever. Lush florals bloomed upon an array of fabrics from luminous silk chiffon to robust cotton gabardine. Stripes and stretch knits embellished the body in both close and exaggerated forms, resulting in an utterly modern and lively narrative. Waists were cinched with sturdy belts, midriffs and shoulders freely exposed. Colors combinations ranged from delectable in pink and orange to deep and soulful in black and violet. Elegant and posh looks in pure black stood out beautifully. When it comes to designing for the joy in each of us, Gordon left no stone unturned. 

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Photo by TIAA, courtesy of Fe Noel.

In the spirit of progress and joyful possibility, Fe Noel debuted the SS23 collection. The masculine and the feminine were seamlessly captured in both exquisite tailoring and finely flowing fabrics. The brand met warmly with all of our current moods, allowing for privacy, respect, and boundless freedom. We were emboldened by brushed silver double face satin, corset tops, and gem tuxedo pants, and equally enraptured by oversized blouses in pale blush chiffon and charmeuse. Looks turned to liquid gold in the Lacey tube top and Zemi gold skirt. The minty Crystal feathered dress takes the cake; both protective and revealing from shoulders to toes, and even fingertips, it champions the individual in all of us. Fa Noel’s closing look, a masterpiece in silk taffeta and paper money, established a collaboration with TIAA and a mission to close the 30% income gap in women’s and men’s retirement: #RetireInequality. 

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Courtesy of Coach.

Set in the romantic fantasy of a New York pier at sunset, Coach debuted Creative Director Stuart Vevers’ Spring 2023 collection, with Lil Nas X serving as Global Ambassador of the brand. In a rich exploration of American heritage, pop culture, and the fluidity of modern beauty, the presentation was abundant in repurposed leather, hand-knit sweaters, and one-of-a-kind pieces. Intertwining past and present, gingham dresses and varsity sweaters were both edgy and nostalgic. The new and vibrant jelly Tabby bag gave the collection an air of beachy escapism. Multi-platinum artist, singer, and songwriter Lil Nas X made his inaugural runway appearance, building on the house’s penchant for lively and brave self-expression. Vevers stated, “Inspired by the next generation’s fluid approach to fashion, the collection celebrates pieces that become more beautiful the more they are worn and loved.” It is in that spirit that the Coach Foundation made a donation to the Park Avenue Armory’s Dream It Real mission, supporting youth and all its potential. 

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Courtesy of AREA.

AREA’s “see now, buy now” Collection 04 was a striking investigation of ancient architecture and fetish, and a celebration of queerness. A folded pyramid motif was deftly applied to spherical column gowns, skirts, and bodysuits in silk-wool, brilliantly-colored silk-duchesse, and Japanese selvage denim. 24k gold accessories and shimmering rainbow headpieces recreated sun-soaked pyramids. Taking inspiration from goldsmith and artist to Holy Roman Emperor Wenzel Jamnitzer, the brand rendered 3D-printed cones with bursting Swarovski crystals. The spikes were then mounted onto decadent and powerful eveningwear. German BDSM artist Cora Korsett informed the cage-like corsets, metal ribbons, sensual evening dresses, and couture pannier jeans. In collaboration with Sergio Rossi, a new capsule collection includes an array of cutting-edge footwear: gladiators, pumps, and slingbacks. Riccardo Sciutto, Group CEO of Sergio Rossi said, “I strongly believe in this partnership that explores the multiple facets of femininity, finding beauty in all its forms and expressions.

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