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Photo by Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images for Concept Korea, courtesy of ul:kin.
Courtesy of COS.
Courtesy of LUAR.
Photo by Indigital Images, courtesy of Lionne.
Photo by Rodin Banica, courtesy of Aliétte.
Courtesy of Theophilio.
Courtesy of Theophilio.
Fashion

NYFW SS23: Theophilio, Aliétte, and More

By Erica Silverman

September 16, 2022

Wrapping up New York Fashion Week, we’re bringing you highlights from the Spring/Summer 2023 collections by Concept Korea, COS, Luar, Lionne, Aliétte, and Theophilio

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Photo by Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images for Concept Korea, courtesy of ul:kin.

Concept Korea’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection included the dynamic visions of Jae Hyuk Lim and Bona Kim of BESFXXK, A-Young Kim of CAHIERS, and Seong Dong Lee of ul:kin. Re-envisioning tailored silhouettes, like the beloved trench coat and the smoking blazer, BESFXXK assembled a collage of history, style, and functionality. Deconstruction, reconstruction, and innovation thrived in the elegant Victorian windbreaker. The CAHIERS SS23 collection whisked us away to medieval Spain, invoking a melting pot of religions and architecture. Islamic arabesque motifs met Roman stained glass in flowing dresses, cascading skirts, and ruffled embellishments. ul:kin was magnetic in form and fashion—inspired by the act of magnet fishing (a manner of removing garbage and pollution submerged in water) and upcycling, Seong Dong Lee re-used fishing tools and gear in an ultra-modern style. Mesh and multi-pockets on vests, skirts, and sensuous sheer tops proved to be both edgy and soulful. 

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Courtesy of COS.

Set against the timeless beauty of the New York City skyline, COS showcased its Fall/Winter 2022 collection, aglow with passion, possibility, and hope. Bright colors, fluid fabrics, and eco-friendly elements were deftly intertwined. 1970s-style knits and boots mingled with 1990s minimalist tailoring and grunge layering, creating the iconic looks of tomorrow. 92 percent of the collection was created from sustainably sourced materials. Neutral suits, undyed cashmere, and tweed coats were elegantly oversized. New occasionwear from the house’s atelier debuted dazzling innovations like a skirt set of recycled sequins and a coin-shaped collage evening dress. Luxurious cashmere coats in tan and green appeared as a warm embrace from the city itself. 

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Courtesy of LUAR.

Raul Lopez of LUAR reminisced about family reunions in snowy Brooklyn and the Spanish nouveau riche in the inspired Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Proud and protective women, decadent, wearable luxury, and the multifaceted immigrant experience in his own family tree was the starting point for Lopez. Nylon tech jackets were thrown over chiffon gowns, denim was paired with silk, light colors met with dark, and proportions were exaggerated. Oversized shoulders carried the weight of individual experience. Nike footwear grounded the powerful looks and, along with the show, collaborated on a multi-day celebratory experience, titled “Beyond the Court,” for Gen Z youth in sports and design. The iconic sportswear brand commissioned LUAR to recreate a look from the great Serena Williams’ career, displayed at The Shed

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Photo by Indigital Images, courtesy of Lionne.

LaToia Fitzgerald’s Lionne Collection 002 was an exquisite love letter to fiercely inspirational women. The youthful nostalgia of 90’s and early 2000’s East Coast icons, such as Aaliyah, Foxy Brown, and Lil Kim, was deeply embedded in the designer's latest creations. Confidence, allure, and sensual energy was tangible in an orange wrap dress, revealing the power of both the seen and the unseen. Reconstructed denim jackets, bustiers, and high-cut dresses had a rhythm all their own. Black and white played well off of one another in slick jackets, shirt dresses, and suits with skirts. Lines and forms were feminine and formidable—the Lionne girl means business, and she brings the party. 

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Photo by Rodin Banica, courtesy of Aliétte.

Everything was coming up roses in the Aliétte Spring/Summer 2023 collection. In homage to the legacy of women in his life, and the pink roses he gives his daughter each week, Jason Rembert created a shining presentation that incorporated 3D enamel florals on flowing jersey fabrics. The brand’s trademark silk faille was embellished with hand embroidery and beading, resulting in a magnum opus. Fairy-tale-like gowns, elegant jackets, and floor-length airy skirts were showcased in otherworldly shades of pink, blue, orange, and green. Fringe, drapery, pleating, and intricate, sparkling vines and florals elevated each and every piece into a work of art at full bloom. 

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Courtesy of Theophilio.

“My Spring/Summer 2023 Collection, ‘Homecoming,’ is an homage to myself; going home to Kingston, Jamaica while also celebrating my life in New Jersey, Atlanta and New York City,” said Edvin Thompson about the latest for his brand Theophilio. The 2021 CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year showcased his vivid post-win creations of shimmering streetwear, Rastafarian influences, and a reimagined “I Love New York” T-shirt. The inventive 31 looks included python-printed dresses, silver mesh tanks, and head to emerald green denim with decadent gold detailing. White was remixed in jeans with ruffled details, and relaxed yet posh jacket, trouser, and skirt combinations. Surprising moments of leather, sequins, and graphic design appeared as the work of a fresh mind with an old soul. New York is loving Edvin Thompson right back. 

AliétteConcept KoreaCOSLionneLuarNew York Fashion WeekNYFWSS23Theophilio

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