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Olivier Theyskens presented his fall/winter 2017 collection in the restaurant Le Train Bleu within Paris’ Gare de Lyon. The romantic line was a return for the designer, full of historical European allusions with a modern twist. Near universal high collars and necklines were paired with silhouettes that came in at the waist. Military-inspired coats and jackets were in feminine fabrics that referenced the shine of lingerie details in other looks. The palette was for the most part subdued, with moments of lime, marigold, and snooker green. There were several versions of a classic trench, which offered a masculine counterpart to the very feminine collection full of charmeuse silks, layered organzas, velvet, and cashmere.