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This week in Paris, fashion houses are sharing their latest collections for Fall/Winter 2021. Here, you’ll find details on what’s new from Longchamp, Chloé, Acne Studios, and Dries Van Noten.
French Equestrian vibes permeated Longchamp’s latest collection, inspired by the house’s own racehorse logo and the interiors of the renowned French designer Pierre Paulin. Debuted within Paris’s Battesti riding hall, a palette of classic hues like black, white, red, and neutrals referenced a Parisian attitude and styles prominent within the sport, while the season’s silhouettes looked to Paulin’s use of line, color, and function in interior design. Looks were executed with many layers, transforming otherwise inter-seasonal garments (like flowing dresses, short skirts, and mini shorts) into warm weather styles—including pairings like a black military jacket layered over a turtleneck and white shorts worn with tall rainboots, a double-denim look worn under a long quilted vest, and a plaid dress paired with a turtleneck and two zip-up jackets.
In Gabriela Hearst’s debut collection for Chloé, the designer has taken a fresh look at the meaning of chloé (Greek for “blooming”), infusing a sense of purpose into its Fall/Winter 2021 designs. The starting point for the season was a quote from house founder Gaby Aghion, “There was no luxury ready-to-wear; well-made clothes with quality fabrics and fine detailing did not exist.” That lead to styles like pristinely-crafted daywear like effortless leather and wool gauze dresses, striped knitwear referencing Hearst’s Uruguayan background, and highly detailed outerwear like a cold weather parka featuring layers and edges of colorful printed fabrics and a beige trench with quilted panels and two-toned details. Backed by a commitment to sustainability, the season also launched an accelerated responsibility plan that encompassed facets like lower-impact materializations, sustainable packaging suppliers, and contributions to a reforestation project in Myanmar.
The off-beat chicness synonymous with Acne Studios’ designs brought us for the Fall/Winter 2021 season a visual evolution from a dreamscape to an awakened reality. The house imagined a sartorial story to accompany the world as it begins to emerge from a year of isolation, embodied in voluminous shapes, soft fabrics, the use of drapery, and a worn quality that adds a sense of familiarity. Silhouettes have the look of something comfortable meant to be worn at home but elevated for everyday wear—like robes reconceptualized as coats, plushy knit sets, and ample pieces that give the look of someone bundled in a blanket. Highlights included a coat in floral with a wide, statement belt; a fluid white gown with cape-like sleeves, styled with tall leather boots and futuristic eyewear; and a dress executed with a hand-bleached effect styled with red mittens and tan leather boots.
Dries Van Noten invited Casper Sejersen to capture its Fall/Winter 2021 designs in a film and set of images that caught the garments in motion. A contrast of purity and passion informed the dynamic collection, which juxtaposed elements of classic dress with a flair for the dramatic—like men’s tailoring with women’s draping, minimalistic garments paired with theatrical ones, and the placement of opposing-textured fabrications together. Executed in a range of deep hues, standout looks we’re still thinking of include a tailored blazer in navy with an outlining of feathers, a sequin-and-fringe dress paired with a trench coat, and a long denim skirt styled with a blazer and a fuzzy scarf in silver.