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Thebe Magugu.

Paris Fashion Week FW21: Marine Serre, Eckhaus Latta, and More

This week in Paris, fashion houses are presenting their collections for Fall/Winter 2021. Below, we’re sharing details on the latest from Cecilie Bahnsen, Marine Serre, Eckhaus Latta, Lourdes, and Thebe Magugu.

Cecile Bahnsen.

Courtesy of Cecile Bahnsen.

After the first bout of isolation amid the pandemic last year, Cecilie Bahnsen and her team took time in their Copenhagen atelier to focus on fabric. They wanted to ensure what went on the skin was beautiful—from comfort for how it felt to texture for how it looked. This desire led the team to create a cohesive collection that flowed from silhouette to small details. The collection includes fabrics like quilted silks, floral fil-coupé, pleated organza, and matelassé, that drape the body in intimate shapes and sights. Japanese obi-esque belts and sashes don several looks, a mohair jumper is draped over a black fil coupé wool dress delicately embroidered with floral beads, and garments are created in layers sewn together as one piece. The label’s ongoing partnership with Mackintosh continued with coats inspired by the Nordic winter light, and her second collaboration with the Spanish footwear label Hereu showed four new styles of shoes, some dotted with handmade tinted glass embellishments by Bahnsen’s friend, the artist Nina Nørgaard. Bahnsen also presented a film entitled The City, produced in collaboration with Moon and the artist Yahn Le Bec and featuring music by composer August Rosenbaum. The visual illustration paints a picture of the collection told in four chapters, and available in four releases.

Marine Serre.

Courtesy of Marine Serre.

Marine Serre made a case for Ecofuturism with “CORE”—the designer’s latest collection presented in the form of garments, a book, and a film. All are equally divided into the same 12 chapters, presenting creative expressions that took three years to create: leather, moire, silk, scarves, denim, tartan scarves, t-shirt patchworking, carpets, crazy pullovers, household linen, workwear, and tailoring. Serre’s signature moon-shaped print was taken to new heights for everyone in the household, from adults to children. Slender tops were layered underneath vests, paired with trousers and leather jackets, while other outfits are topped with bucket hats, large scarves, and small chined bags worn around the neck. The designer’s ethos, rooted in rebirth, is exercised through each piece, reimagining which materials are used, how pieces are interpreted, and what can be offered at a lower price point. Fall/Winter 2021 was also partially made using recycled fibers in the “White Line” capsule collection, available soon at a reworked price point for the designer’s idea of Ecofuturism to reach the broader public.

Ekhaus Latta.

Photo by Darian Dicianno for BFA, courtesy of Ekhaus Latta.

Eckhaus Latta presented its 19th show with a collection that bridges the progressive, bi-coastal mindsets of its creators. Between New York and Los Angeles, the brand’s founders Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus have their fingers on the pulse of a younger generation’s potential. Their instinctual nature guides them to create garments that make sense—for men or women, for cooler climates or warmer temperatures, for the young or not-so-young. Clothing and accessories designated for gender or occasion were never really something the designers clung to, and with Fall/Winter 2021, we saw this resistance perpetuated. Trousers were loose with a long zipper and tops reveal cutouts and layers that can be unbuttoned at the chest and the waist. To sound created by Jon Eckhaus, models at 154 Scott in Brooklyn walked in black Marsèll shoes, styled by Avena Gallagher in a film by Minnie Bennett.

Lourdes

Photo by Anna Adamo, courtesy of Lourdes.

Lourdes celebrates one year in the fashion world by revealing its third collection entitled “Ascension.” Seen through images by the photographer Anna Adamo, the brand offered a look into a new reality, as we ascend from claustrophobic daily rituals to freedom. To encourage this storyline, garments were constructed upward. Jersey and gabardine were draped with high gatherings, cotton ribbed dresses were worn three ways, and a uni-sleeved silk dress doubles as a top. For Fall/Winter 2021, the brand’s creative direction, Andreas Aresti, unveiled a new trouser style. Two flaps on the pants can be re-buttoned on the backside, revealing hip-slits. And through the palette of black and white, pops of yellow, and blue electrified the mood for a proper ascension to take place.

Thebe Magugu.

Courtesy of Thebe Magugu.

Thebe Magugu’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection “The Alchemy” was a colorful and engaging presentation that explored African spirituality. The eponymous label’s South African founder wanted to create a line that moved beyond inspiration found with ancestors to have a conversation with traditional healers. As Magugu mentioned in her collection notes, these pillars in the community “act as a conduit between various realms, often by using objects of divination.” This strength, heavily relied on natural forces, is seen executed in garments in collaboration with the Johannesburg-based stylist and healer Noentla Khumalo. Her work—using bones as the medium to communicate—headlines the collection’s prints. Objects she used, from goat knuckles to seashells, were tossed onto a mat, photographed, and abstracted into prints for the season. Magugu also welcomed Larisa Don to create botanical transfers of plants onto garments, the Japanese textile maker Adachi San to handcraft black suits with rayon pompoms, and the Netherlands-based textile company BYBORRE to create fabrics with raised surfaces to mimic scarifications. Through a film entitled BANYOLOYI A BOSIGO by long-term collaborator Kristin-Lee Moolman, these ideas were visually explored for a deeper understanding of the love between two members of rivaling tribes.  

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Minjung Kim

THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
2023

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