Paris Fashion Week needs little introduction. For years, it has been the ultimate destination for fashion visionaries worldwide, and this year is no exception to its iconic legacy. From the nostalgic air of MAITREPIERRE’s collection to the playful, rich self-expression presented by Zomer, join Whitewall for a front-row seat to this week’s most anticipated shows.
ALAINPAUL Sets the Stage with “Performer”
Courtesy of Alain Paul, fw25, runway IG, look03
Courtesy of Alain Paul, fw25, runway IG, look04
Illustrating the roles we step into through our daily lives, ALAINPAUL blends on-duty and off-duty essentials with the chic integration of the flow and tension a performer experiences, forming a dialogue between form and freedom. Exploring each stage of a performance, this collection highlights the impact of on-duty formal wear, presenting suits and coats created from deadstock luxury wool, in contrast to the casual movement of off-duty dresses, skirts, tops, and trousers, all created from recycled creased nylons and silk. Representing the end of the performance and the process of shedding one’s on-stage persona, to return to one’s real self, ruffled dresses and shirts untangle around the body. This collection is a stunning tribute to the interplay between performance and reality.
UNDERCOVER Commemorates 35th Anniversary
Courtesy of UNDERCOVER
Courtesy of UNDERCOVER
Originally created 20 years ago, UNDERCOVER reimagines its 2004-2005 A/W collection this fashion week. Inspired by the artistic plush creations by French artist Ann-Valérie Dupond and the style of Patti Smith, this collection reflects 20 years of creative exploration and growth, honoring the past while simultaneously evolving toward the future. Pantsuits with intricate gold detailing and wide-leg pleated trousers paired with an eclectic blue zip-up turtleneck reflect a chic approach to casual adult elegance.
ANREALAGE Creates Infinite Possibilities with “SCREENS”
Courtesy of ANREALAGE
Courtesy of ANREALAGE
Kunihiko Morinaga’s Autumn/Winter ‘25 collection creates a vision of a dark, almost blank background. A void where creation knows no limits, a “SCREEN” that may display any color, pattern, or message. The garment comes alive with customizable visual expression, bridging technological advancement with chic silhouettes. The runway is illuminated with Knitted tops created from LED yarn glistening, as a pair of identical models wear borders and stripes that migrate from one another. The garments generate 60 variations of designs with 30-second intervals, creating an optical frenzy, all which may disappear at any moment, leaving observers with the same dark space, filled with endless possibilities. This collection transcends traditional craftsmanship, creating a new form of fashion for a future where individuals may express themselves even further.
MAITREPIERRE Creates a “Future Memory”
Courtesy of maitrepierre
Courtesy of maitrepierre
This Fall/Winter 2025, MAITREPIERRE invites us to rummage through our grandmother’s trunks, rediscovering the nostalgic yet timeless elegance of the past. Delicate floral-cut laser patterns appear on 1920s-inspired upholstery brocades, while seventies-inspired stripes add a bold contrast. This collection poses two thought-provoking questions: What will we leave behind? and How will these remnants evolve? Breathing new life into vintage influences, MAITREPIERRE distresses Jacquard fabrics to mimic fur and adorns laser-cut birds on faux leather pieces, seamlessly blending trompe l’oeil illusions with technical innovations.
Zomer Echoes a Reimagined Past
Courtesy of Zomer
Courtesy of Zomer
Born from the moments we long to relive, rewind, and redo, Collection 04 embraces the bittersweet ache of time with a playful, almost childlike spirit. Twisted, upside-down garments and unconventional styling challenge the notion of the “correct” way to dress, much like a child learning to dress independently, guided by instinct rather than rules. No rights, no wrongs, just pure intuition. This sense of freedom extends into the collections knitwear, created in collaboration with renowned knitwear designer Cecile Feilchenfeldt. Inspired by the vibrant hues and rich shapes of Moroccan carpets, these pieces add yet another layer of texture and movement to the collection.
Mame Kurogouchi Contemplates “Form”
Courtesy of Luca Tombolini and Collective Parade
Courtesy of Luca Tombolini and Collective Parade
Building from the previous season, Mame Kurogouchi continues to materialize uniquely beautiful forms.The collection, “Katachi”, inspired from the book “The forms of Japan”, explores a fascination with silhouettes and the embodiment of structural beauty and innate texture. Crafted by Kurogouchi herself, paper-cut forms merge with intricate patternmaking and lavish textiles, infusing each piece with both softness and dimensional depth. This collection unfolds like a poetic narrative, expressed through voluminous sleeves, asymmetrical silhouettes, and wide collars that gently wrap around the neck. An asymmetrical jersey knit dress balances elegance with its relaxed simplicity, while a knit dress with rippling sleeves evokes the delicate glow of a red paper lantern. “Katachi” is a testament to form, movement, and craftsmanship, where tradition and innovation intertwine.
