Schiaparelli’s “Surrealist Holiday” was inspired by the woman behind the maison, Elsa Schiaparelli. Current creative director Daniel Roseberry made it his mission to capture her spirit, and for Spring/Summer 2022 drew upon her intense creativity and celebration of scientific innovation. Looks emphasized the bust and swimwear was made ultra-functional with an umbrella headpiece. Striped sets embellished with gilded hardware looked like costumes out of a Tim Burton film. More lavishly decorated denim sets, with fringe, near-blinding sequins, and metallic embroidery, seemed reminiscent of cowboy culture, no coincidence as Roseberry is a Texan after all. There was also a focus on features of the face—eyes, ears, nose, and lips—adorning many looks, acting as a tribute to the senses.
For the season, Pierpaolo Piccioli introduced the Valentino Archive project, where iconic pieces of collections past are reinterpreted and given new life. A belted poppy gown from 1971, an animal print coat from 1967, and blue jeans from 1986, were among the collection’s replicas. Other looks in the collection included a semi-sheer white mini dress adored with fluttering daisies, sweeping coats in deep shades of blue and red with abstract floral prints, and a dripping gold party dress with a keyhole opening in the front. Piccioli took the preciousness out of haute couture, wanting to take from the past and add more progressive elements, never nostalgic.
Givenchy offered an haute couture take on punk street style with looks that were utilitarian but playful. Bold red and multi-colored outerwear took on the now timeless trend of layering hoodies, accessorized with wallets on chains or wristlets holstered to belts. Structured peplum tunics were armored with leather breastplates and zippers down the center. Other standout looks included a graphic t-shirt with matching pants underneath a classic plaid trench coat. Matthew M. Williams’s first in-person Givenchy show was a play on everyday styles and a bold, raw attitude that subverted expectations. Of the collection, Williams stated that he “wanted to build on the tradition of Givenchy’s history while also really looking towards the future. To do this, I worked with people I admire across different disciplines who have truly unique perspectives including the artist Josh Smith, whose iconic work is incorporated throughout the collection, and the musician Young Thug, who created the entire score for the show. The collaboration and this collection offer people a remarkably immersive and special experience.”
Elie Saab’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection included refined silhouettes with fresh colors and textures. In a distinct blend of neutral and tropical color palettes, it was made for every occasion. Taking cues from the 1970s, trousers and skirts were paired with crop tops in matching graphic prints. Frilly black and white dresses and gowns redefined day-to-night, as did sequined dresses in dark blue and red-orange. Dresses in soft greens and blues were easy-flowing and offered a range of necklines. “Splendor in the Sun” simplified dressing while not compromising on imagination.
Alexandre Vauthier brought a sporty sense of elegance to his Spring/Summer 2022 collection. With a mix of fitted knitwear, jersey dresses, and exaggerated suits, Vauthier emphasized his mastery of draping and distinct style for silhouettes. Light-catching mini dresses with waterfall details around the midsection and ballet style skirts and waist defining satiny dresses with varying necklines in bold cool colors were the quintessential party dress, reimagined. A standout look included an all over pom-fringe set in black and white, and blue and purple, dotted with puffs of neon yellow.