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Paris Fashion Week continues with Spring/Summer 2021 presentations taking place both in-person and online. Here, we’re sharing details from Hermès, Givenchy, Gabriela Hearst, and more.
Utilitarian comfort was a term that came to mind looking at the Spring/Summer 2021 collection from Hermès. A pathway filled with mirrors and snippets of work by Claudia Wieser served as the backdrop to an exploration of ideas of grace, confidence, fragility, and strength in a selection of warm hues like sky blue, pale yellow, and bright red. Details like open backs, side cutouts, and mini-length hems added a hint of sensuality to fits that softly hugged the body in all the right places—not oversized, but loose enough to ensure easy movements. Everyday classics were updated and elevated with unique details informed by house codes, like a leather coat with a rolled collar and woven trim, a hybrid of a clog and loafer with studs, and a skirt with a yoked suspender top. Standout looks included a series of dresses with shiny netted overlays, a take on a work suit with pleated pants and rolled-up sleeves, and the simple leather skirts paired with cut-out tops.
Looking for humanity in the world of luxury, Givenchy’s new designs for men and women aimed to bring joy, power, and a sense of effortlessness to their wearers. Matthew M. Williams’s debut collection for the house set standards for seasons to come, like the series of “hardware” that replaced the collection’s accessories with gender-neutral options, including a unisex Lover’s Lock motif and the new Cut-out bag. Captured in a photographic study by Heji Shin, the collection celebrated thoughts of evolution in designs that were doused in juxtapositions like themes of lighthearted and serious, unlikely textural pairings, and barely-there-sheers layered for full coverage. Pieces we’re still thinking about include the playful Tryp-toe sandal and three-toed stockings, slit trousers that looked like window blinds, blazers with sheath-like structured sleeves, and a jewel-covered hoodie paired with a sheer skirt and gloves and oversized accessories.
Recalling a dream of her grandmother and a shell bracelet gifted by her mother, the designer Gabriela Hearst chose to let her subconscious guide the way for Spring/Summer 2021. Elegant silhouettes and fabrications like cashmere silk, nappa leather, linen, and merino wool existed in a palette of black, white, blue, red, orange, and yellow. Hemlines of pants, skirts, and dresses all fell to the ankles, adding an air of sophistication to nonchalant styles like tank dresses and loose jumpsuits. Looks were put together with simple styling that highlighted details in the designs, like small cut-out sections, detailed stitching, patches of rainbow knit, and delicate belts. Looks we loved included a multicolored pleated skirt and a collared blouse, a black leather dress with statement sleeves, and an airy white dress with patchwork stitches and a cream overcoat.
AMI debuted its Spring/Summer 2021 collection outdoors along the Seine River, marking the house’s first participation in Paris Women’s Fashion Week. Introducing collections for men and women, the season was informed by the laidback essence of a Parisian summer, embodied in a mix of subtle and rich colors like pistachio, lilac, beige, emerald, and purple. Practical styles intermingled with a touch of exuberance yielded looks like a sweater vest and shorts with an oversized bonnet/bucket hat crossover and an amply cut gown in white with neck ruffles and a long, flowy silhouette. Other highlights included a plaid skirt with a white tank and simple slide sandals, a head-to-toe denim look styled with a cross-body pouch and floppy hat, and an all-over brown look with trousers, a jacket, and bra top paired with white sneakers.
Reflective of the designer’s own environment and experiences, Altuzarra’s Spring/Summer 2021 collection came to life with the concurring elements of restraint and freedom. Informed by the garments described in science fiction novel Dune, the house turned to soft drapery and earthy influences for the collection’s foundations. That concept was applied to pieces like floaty skirts with hems folded under, dresses with layers of loose fabric, and gently swaying pants with wide legs. While looks were built on notions of free movement, waistlines were nipped with wide belts, fabric ties, and dainty chains, and garments were closed at the seams (or left open) with long lines of buttons. The collection’s easy prints and understated hues of blue, yellow, and army green provided a delicate contrast to the raw, simplistic runway. Each styled with a pair of braided platform sandals, collection highlights included a ribbed-knit dress with cape-like sleeves, a pair of airy, mixed-print pinstripe trousers paired with a textural knit tank and matching tote, and a draped skirt in buttery yellow styled with a statement leather belt, knit top, and a raffia bag.